[YaoNg]

If it's the ticking / creaking noise I had then BMW have a technical fix for this which can be done under warranty.

http://www.babybmw.net/forum/viewtopic.php?f=74&t=100372

It's not a rattle at all, but a creaking / ticking noise when turning.

Thank you. Although mine doesn't appear to have a pattern to it (unlike yours I can't hear it when turning or at low speeds for example), I have asked them to look at the suspension on the rear driver's side, as the noise does appear to be coming from that area. But they have refused multiple times. The way it's going they will have to eventually check it as there can't be much else to check.

The creaking noise drastically got louder over a period of a month or so and to the point that people would turn and look if I was in a car park.

However, dealerships vary on their expertise and willingness to help. I can recommend a particular engineer at Chandlers Brighton if that is feasible option travel wise. He's always been open and up front about issues and he has saved me a load of money as my local dealership Coopers Croydon were inept.

 

[olda47]

Hi all

I just registered as I'm experiencing the same 'ticking' noise, which sounds like it's coming from the rear driver side pillar. I've read numerous threads on this but this sounds just like mine! I've only had my 140 since march so maybe from the same Friday afternoon build!

Anyway, I spent the weekend stripping my boot from trim and all sorts, to no avail. I even got my daughter to sit in the back to locate the noise as I went over a number of speed humps. Oddly enough she thinks it's coming from the roof as opposed to the rear quarter, although from the driver seat I swear it's not. I then had a look under the roof liner at the aerial but nothing!

As a result I was lost but during my attempts to solve this, found that the noise got worse the more I wound out the boot stops and adjusted the boot catch. I did wonder if stiffening the boot lid had resulted in making things worse so wound them right down. My thoughts are that maybe adding some flexibility might help.

I don't know if this will work for everyone but on my 30 mile commute yesterday the noise was almost gone. It's still there but was an exception as opposed to the norm. I'm now going to keep fiddling and will return the boot catch the its original position and see what happens but so far so good.

Personally I can live with the occasional knock but not as it was as it was driving me mad.

Now I've just got creaky windows to deal with!

All the best.

Hi and thank you for your comments.

I have adjusted the boot stops and the D ring position over and over and at least in my case it hasn't made any difference.

Please let know how you get on.

Thank you

I did wonder if stiffening the boot lid had resulted in making things worse so wound them right down. My thoughts are that maybe adding some flexibility might help.
Interesting! Yes, it would make sense. There´s a relationship b/n the boot lid (tailgate) and C pillar, RR wheel housing and the roof panel. So, if the boot lid sits tight, it doesn´t allow for body to flex, so the noise would be worse as the more twisting force is put on spot welds. (Sorry, but I´m convinced, that the loose spot weld or spot welds are the cause of this problem). And be careful! The loose fit boot lid can generate more wind noise and allow for a water ingress.

 

[olda47]

Hi all

I just registered as I'm experiencing the same 'ticking' noise, which sounds like it's coming from the rear driver side pillar. I've read numerous threads on this but this sounds just like mine! I've only had my 140 since march so maybe from the same Friday afternoon build!

Anyway, I spent the weekend stripping my boot from trim and all sorts, to no avail. I even got my daughter to sit in the back to locate the noise as I went over a number of speed humps. Oddly enough she thinks it's coming from the roof as opposed to the rear quarter, although from the driver seat I swear it's not. I then had a look under the roof liner at the aerial but nothing!

As a result I was lost but during my attempts to solve this, found that the noise got worse the more I wound out the boot stops and adjusted the boot catch. I did wonder if stiffening the boot lid had resulted in making things worse so wound them right down. My thoughts are that maybe adding some flexibility might help.

I don't know if this will work for everyone but on my 30 mile commute yesterday the noise was almost gone. It's still there but was an exception as opposed to the norm. I'm now going to keep fiddling and will return the boot catch the its original position and see what happens but so far so good.

Personally I can live with the occasional knock but not as it was as it was driving me mad.

Now I've just got creaky windows to deal with!

All the best.

Hi and thank you for your comments.

I have adjusted the boot stops and the D ring position over and over and at least in my case it hasn't made any difference.

Please let know how you get on.

Thank you

I did wonder if stiffening the boot lid had resulted in making things worse so wound them right down. My thoughts are that maybe adding some flexibility might help.
Interesting! Yes, it would make sense. There´s a relationship b/n the boot lid (tailgate) and C pillar, RR wheel housing and the roof panel. So, if the boot lid sits tight, it doesn´t allow for body to flex, so the noise would be worse as the more twisting force is put on spot welds. (Sorry, but I´m convinced, that the loose spot weld or spot welds are the cause of this problem). And be careful! The loose fit boot lid can generate more wind noise and allow for a water ingress.

 

[SOL111]

Thanks olda

My thinking with the stiffness comes from my being a dynamicist by trade so vibrations are my thing (and no I don't work for Ann Summers ).

In my case I've noticed a few things. I get the knocking under low speed when the car is under torsion. Small speed humps set this off if I go over them on one side.

The other case occurs between 35-40mph over moderate road imperfections. The fact that the knocking doesn't occur all the time leads me to think that there's a dynamic component in there, which will be stiffness based. I think I found a sweet spot the other day but have since lost it from tweaking. It's ok though as I'm just trying to find the boundaries.

You may well be right about the spot welding and if that's the case then we're stuffed unless we can find it!

Last night I stripped the boot out again and this time the rear driver side boot lining and rear light cluster. Anything that was bolted on got padded out. This morning I'm still getting the odd knock so am running out of things to damp!

I'll keep at it and will let you know how I get on.

Regards

 

[olda47]

At one stage I was a leader of the NVH committee at Toyota. I´m covinced that the abnormal noise we are chasing is generated by either unsuficient number of spot welds or the spot weld-s which didn´t take up and are hence "loose". The way to find this culprit or culprits, is to bare the flange and carefully examine each and every spot weld visually and the suspect spot weld check mechanically with a chisel and hammer. Yes, it´s a bit.ch of a job and that´s the reason why the service people will try everything else first, before tuckling the hard path.

 

[Mooeeey]

Thanks olda

My thinking with the stiffness comes from my being a dynamicist by trade so vibrations are my thing (and no I don't work for Ann Summers ).

In my case I've noticed a few things. I get the knocking under low speed when the car is under torsion. Small speed humps set this off if I go over them on one side.

The other case occurs between 35-40mph over moderate road imperfections. The fact that the knocking doesn't occur all the time leads me to think that there's a dynamic component in there, which will be stiffness based. I think I found a sweet spot the other day but have since lost it from tweaking. It's ok though as I'm just trying to find the boundaries.

You may well be right about the spot welding and if that's the case then we're stuffed unless we can find it!

Last night I stripped the boot out again and this time the rear driver side boot lining and rear light cluster. Anything that was bolted on got padded out. This morning I'm still getting the odd knock so am running out of things to damp!

I'll keep at it and will let you know how I get on.

Regards

Thank you for the update.

Although I do get a very light knocking noise when going over bumps etc (I'm pretty sure I had this on my m135i), the issue I have is more of a 'tick, tick' noise. Like metal on metal. Here's the video if you haven't heard it already.

https://youtu.be/blPB0-2n_6g

Adjusting the boot stops and D ring to anything other than keeping the boot lid tight shut for me results in hearing the boot latch/boot knock. It doesn't eliminate the original noise, just creates a new one.

 

[olda47]

Yes. Tick-tick noise (metal to metal contact), is associated with the poor spot welding. It´s either a spot missing or out of position or the faulty spot. More often than not it is a faulty spot, because a weld robot schedule is fixed and more or less foolproofed. However, the condition of the weld tip on the weld gun is variable and therefore prone to a bad spotting. I would not dismiss a design fault too, as the vehicles with this fault are in evidence since the SVP.

 

[SOL111]

Thanks. For info, mine is the tick-ticking too. It almost sounds like it would if you tapped a screwdriver on a panel.

I see you have an F21 like me. Have you bought the under body strut brace that comes as standard on the F20?

 

[Mooeeey]

Thanks. For info, mine is the tick-ticking too. It almost sounds like it would if you tapped a screwdriver on a panel.

I see you have an F21 like me. Have you bought the under body strut brace that comes as standard on the F20?

No mine is completely standard. I thoughT the 3 doors had it and the 5 doors didn't? or have they changed it and if so why? :S

 

[SOL111]

My apologies, I've probably got the numbers mixed up. Is that a bannable sin on here

I meant the 5 door not having the strut brace and am wondering if this is common to us experiencing the same issue.

But I see you have a nice F21 so throws that theory out lol.

 

[Mooeeey]

My apologies, I've probably got the numbers mixed up. Is that a bannable sin on here

I meant the 5 door not having the strut brace and am wondering if this is common to us experiencing the same issue.

But I see you have a nice F21 so throws that theory out lol.

I've just had a look at mine and it's not there!

After a little bit of digging it looks like neither the 3 or 5 door M140i has the brace, but the M240i still does. I know the 5 door M140i never had it, but why remove it from the 3 door?

 

[Gimbal]

In my case I've noticed a few things. I get the knocking under low speed when the car is under torsion. Small speed humps set this off if I go over them on one side.

Just wanted to add that this is a perfect description of how my car ticks behave. It's a 5 door built in Feb. 2017.

It sounds as if I have something loose moving around in the trunk, especially when the car is under torsion as in going up or down a small bump with only one side of the car, no matter how slow I drive.

Maybe I should look into this boot lid adjustment as well.

 

[enthusiastowned]

In my case I've noticed a few things. I get the knocking under low speed when the car is under torsion. Small speed humps set this off if I go over them on one side.

Just wanted to add that this is a perfect description of how my car ticks behave. It's a 5 door built in Feb. 2017.

It sounds as if I have something loose moving around in the trunk, especially when the car is under torsion as in going up or down a small bump with only one side of the car, no matter how slow I drive.

Maybe I should look into this boot lid adjustment as well.

Identical description to mine too! Never did get to the bottom of it.

 

[olda47]

Hi there! From all the reports, I gather, that the most troublesome body seems to be a 3 door. It would make sense, if we are just looking at the body structure. 5 door body is more solid due to having an extra pair of doors. So, a flexing of the rear section of the body, would be more natural to the 3 door and that is the most likely reason for the extra body brace on 2er coupe. Why it has been omitted on 3 and 5 door 1er we don´t know. And yes, it would have made sense to keep it at least on the 3 door body. It wouldn´t be unusual for a weak spot weld (wouldn´t pull the nugget) to let go under stress. Hope that someone from the BMW engineering reads this stuff and learns from it!

 

[Gimbal]

Mine is a 5 door and I'm not convinced it is a spot weld just yet. I have been out driving around with rear seats down, boot floor out and even the boot lid open. Still get the sound now and then so at least I guess it's not the boot lid.
On a side note apparently one of the boxes back there controls the gearbox as it made en electronic buzz at every gear change.

I don't now how the car is built really but I guess there is some anti roll bar or something similar at the rear axle? Maybe that is something to look into next.

 

[olda47]

OK. But remember, we are chasing the tick-tick metal to metal noise associated with the body flexing.

 

[olda47]

Hi guys, any news? Good or bad......

 

[Mooeeey]

Hi guys, any news? Good or bad......

Mines back with the dealer next week. Hopefully we'll see.

I suspect whatever is causing the noise is becoming more 'loose' or something connected to the original problem is also loose/broken, as the same type noise is now coming from the centre of the rear, alongside the original noise coming from the driver's side rear still.

 

[olda47]

Generally, a more pronounced abnormal noise is easier to track and fix. Good luck again!

 

[olda47]

Hi guys! Any news on this troublesome rattle?