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Ultimate DashCam Installation Guide (DAB Fix)

80769 Views 44 Replies 25 Participants Last post by  MrHappy
A little while ago i decided to take the plunge and invest in a dash cam. I opted for the Blackvue DR650WG-2CH, the reason behind this was due to the front and rear facing cameras with built in GPS & WiFi. However after reading many forum posts on the best way to install this I came across many people having problems such as routing cables, battery error messages and the DAB radio not working (including myself). However after about a month of testing, all is now fixed.

So i thought i'd tackle all the problems in one video / post and show you the best way to install a dash cam in your BMW with parking mode.

First of all is to mount the dash cam to the windshield.

You then want to run the power cable and rear camera cable along the headlining, then tuck the cables behind the trim into the A-Pillar

When you reach the B-Pillar, you're going to need to push the headline lining up with some force to push the cable behind some clips. Without doing this, the cable will be visible.

You then want to run the cable along the top of the window and push it over the headlining, just like the windshield.

You now want to pry off some of the boot trim to give you full access. The photo below shows the locations of 4 screws that will need to be removed. Once removed, you give a firm tug and the trim pieces will pop off. Don't worry, they wont break.

To completely hide all cables, you will also need to pull the rubber weather stripping and rubber sleeve out. Then thread the cable through the rubber sleeve.

Next comes the bit that causes issues with many other dash cam users. You do NOT want to install the dash cam at the top of the rear windshield.

This is what will cause your DAB radio to have interference and will periodically cut out which is very annoying. The reasonn behind this is that the camera will be located right next to the DAB receiver. To get around this issue, it's to place the camera is at the very bottom of the windshield which is the furthest point from the receiver, plus the camera will be completely hidden in your rear view mirror.

You now need to thread the camera cable through the bodywork to reach the bottom of the window.

Now's the time to attach the camera to the window

Here is the view from the camera when attached.

Time to add power to the camera.

To keep things simple, I routed the power cable along the same side of the car, however I ran the power cable down the A-Pillar and along the floor.

No cables to be seen.

This bit was the easiest of it all, simply push the cable between the trim and the seats, it's nice and deep so no issues of the cable falling out.

You'll then be able to tuck the remaining cable under the boot carpet with enough left to plug into he power source. I wrapped the end of the cable in duct tape to prevent the sharp metal cutting through.

I wanted the dash cam to run when the car was parked. I've seen too may people hit cars and the drive off. However the main way to do this is to hardwire the dash cam to the battery, however the problem most BMW owners will face is a battery drain error, not only is this very annoying, but it means your keyless entry will no longer work.

The way around this problem is to install a secondary battery that's dedicated to the dash cam. A popular choice is the Cellink Battey B, but with limited access within the UK I needed an alternative. I opted for the Lukas LK 570 Power Pack Pro. This turned out to have huge advantages over the Cellink, one being that it can reach its full charge of 25 hours recording time in just an hour. Perfect as many of my journeys are under 30 minuets. Plus the battery will continue to charge for another 20-30 mins until the car enters 'sleep mode', meaning a full battery every time.

Installation was VERY easy. The ground cable attached to bare metal, (I used the battery bracket). To provide power to the battery, you are provided with a fuse piggyback meaning you simply get power from an existing fuse. I used fuse 100 which are the LED running lights.

That's it, now everything is wired in, all you have to do is put the trim pieces back together and admire the stealthy dash cam.

Below is a video guide on the best way to install the dash cam for the more visual users too.

I have used this setup for nearly a month now and I've had no problems with wires being exposed, error messages being displayed or fuses blowing.

If you have any questions regarding this setup, please let me know.

Hope this has helped.
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Well done, looks like a very neat install and great explanation

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Fantastic post, which I think is going to help me loads. When installing my DR650 2ch I didn't brave a solution for how to route the rear can wire through the hatch rubbers since I was concerned I might mess up the trim, so I ended up with an exposed wire going over the inside of the tailgate. Also, my cellink's currently under my seat (not ideal, since it sits on top of the woofer), since I was concerned about how to wire it up the car's electrics.

I see that you removed the BC post: I didn't find any need for this - simply used a plastic trim tool to tease the wire behind it.

I have my front camera offset at the top of the screen, to reduce visibility from outside.

Just to point out, the Lukas LK-570 is the Cellink B, simply rebranded! " onclick=";return false;"

As you say, great batteries. Had mine for 4 months and it still charges up in less than an hour and will provide a minimum of 18 hours charge for car parking protection.

The cellink can be bought off ebay from this dealer " onclick=";return false;"

edit - I see from your links in the vid that they are now selling the Lucas/Cellink in the UK, which is excellent news for new buyers, since shipping and import duties were adding £50 to the price!
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The OP states that the fuse piggyback goes to fuse 100, yet appears to be going to 155.

Anyone able to help on this please?

edit - watching the video back I can see more clearly that 100 is being used.
Thanks for this, I've had a 650-2 installed for a few months and you inspired me to relocate the rear camera to the bottom. Much cleaner image too as it avoids the demister lines.

Have you or any other Blackvue owners experienced crashes? Mine locks up every couple of days and needs to be power cycled. It's obvious as the LEDs stop responding, but I'm worried one day I won't realise and will miss something important.
Had mine about five months - hasn't missed a beat to date. Are you using v1.09? Might want to reflash?
moulin12 said:
Had mine about five months - hasn't missed a beat to date. Are you using v1.09? Might want to reflash?
Yep, using 1.09. I wonder if they'll ever get 2.0 working outside Korea. The motion sensitivity in parking mode is way too high.

I have a hunch it may be my SD card. I remember reading somewhere that it doesn't properly support 64gb cards. Maybe I should get a 32gb.
Not an expert, but I can't see why it would be the card that causes the cam to crash. The 650-2 supports up to 128GB. I use a 64GB, with no problem, though it's a high quality card. I think version 2.02 now works fine, and indeed it did on mine when I looked to try out the cloud functionality. I reverted to 1.09 since without a mobile router you're limited to using the cloud functionality at your home base, plus the app is designed around viewing from the cloud, meaning that you lose the N, E, P stamps.

In the first instance I would reload the 1.09 software, then perhaps buy a new card.

Just saw that the cam has come up in at massdrop for £205 (inc delivery) at the best price with a 16GB microSD card. Might be useful for some considering the same model used in the example.

Ships early March.

Would it be possible to put the front camera in the rear and rear in the front as it would save running two cables from the front to the rear as the front one has power and the battery is in the boot so less cable through the whole car ?
I bought a Thinkware F770 dual camera system from their UK website and managed to find a discount code - making it £219 delivered inc 32gb card.
Biccus1 said:
Would it be possible to put the front camera in the rear and rear in the front as it would save running two cables from the front to the rear as the front one has power and the battery is in the boot so less cable through the whole car ?
Yes, but the Blackvue has a only full high def on the front camera. Also the rear cam has more of a fisheye lens, so all in all the decent quality would be rear footage, not front footage.

But threading the wiring is very simple on the 1er, and you can simply run the power line down one side of the interior and the rear to front connector down the other. If doing for the first time the setup takes probably 90 mins, much less if you have the routes for the wires planned out.

If it really bothered you then you could get the thinkware as this has high def front and rear.
I have a mobius top of rear screen, no issues with DAB. Think I read later ones are shielded.
Did you install the blackvue power magic pro? Or is that unnecessary when it connected with a battery pack?

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TackleBerry said:
Did you install the blackvue power magic pro? Or is that unnecessary when it connected with a battery pack?

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I'm not the OP (don't think he posts much), but I do have the same set up.

The use of a battery is an alternative to using a magic pro, though possibly they can be used together.

Battery advantages

- no constant draining of the car battery (though there is argument that new style batteries can cope well with this)
- no chance of getting the voltage drain warning sign on the idrive when you start the car (possibly depends how the magic pro is hardwired)
- no interface with electrics = no warranty issues

Battery disadvantages

- silly cost
- if not doing sufficient mileage to recharge (takes an hour), have to take it out everyday to charge
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Just received my Blackvue DR650S-2CH and Lukas LK-570 following your great video! Thank you!

I have a couple of questions, opinions to ask!

Is there a reason for routing the two cables separately? Noise? Shortage of space behind the headlining? (BTW useful tip for getting thinner wires to stay put is to wrap an insulating tape thickening sleeve at important points like corners, long stretches)

I have DAB, but considering positioning the rear cam at the bottom (top doesn't demist for ages). Is the view much reduced? (M235i coupé)

My fuse 100 is absent as I don't have LED running lights. Asked my BMW dealer and they said it's impossible to say (dicks!). The silly little card in the fuse box isn't much help either - it lists 12 different fuses for the radio! The Lukas draws 7amps, should I not be using a fuse rated 7amps or more? My logic is the wires behind the fuse box will only be rated to the current they carry?

Did you check your fuse adapter is the right way round? ... -way.7524/

Any help, suggestions, experiences welcome!
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The OP hasn't further posted on this forum since starting this thread. Unfortunately, my set up is different in that I haven't permanently hooked up the Lukas/Cellink to the car battery, since on an average weekday I only travel a couple of miles, so need to take the battery out each day to charge using a mains adaptor. But, some thoughts...

I took the route of wiring the cables down each side of the car separately simply because it seem to easier to squeeze the wire under seals/into crevices this way.

Having refitted the BV from my F20 to my F22, I found that the only way to get a full view was to place the rear cam at the top, to one side of the brake light strip. Even though it's to one side, the lens FoV means that you still get an almost equi-distance view. And yes, you can see the heat-spot in the early morning, though not enough in anyway to help with de-misting! When positioning, simply power up the cam and use the live view on the app to get a wysiwyg view!

Regards DAB, I'm not sure just how much the cams actually interfere: a fair number of people have commented on the weakness of BMW DAB, whether or not they have a dashcam. I've yet to give the DAB in my F22 a fair trial, but I'm thinking that it's possibly better than on my F20. This might be something to do with the different shape of the rear screen elements between the two, but this is just idle conjecture.

As I said, can't be much help with the wiring, unfortunately.

If you need any help with cloud settings etc, just give me a shout.
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Set mine up today, Thinkware F770 and Cellink B and extended battery, hardwire to fuse 141, I think heated seats.
All seemed OK, but after leaving parked for about 10 mins, restarted and weird error messages sidelight failure, indicator failure. After a few mins they started working again.
Disconnected Hardwire and will see in daylight.
Is the double battery too much ?. Does it just need a good charge from driving.
Any advice appreciated.

Are all fuses in the box in the boot always live? i cant fid one that will turn on and off with my ignition, which is what I want as i do not need parking protection.
^^ car stays alive for about 10 minutes after turning the ignition off.

Using this excellent guide, I fitted a Blackvue 650S IR 2CH to my 125d yesterday, works a treat, i did have a problem with DAB reception even when i fitted the rear cam to the botton of the screen, i fixed it by keeping the rear camera wires away from the rear window DAB connections at the bottom of the screen.

As far as parking mode is concerned, I am going to make a aux batters system and combine it with the power magic pro.

I have a 12v 7.2AH small battery, a Durite 140A Voltage Sensitive relay (VSR), a power magic pro - currently looking for a plastic project case to house it. basically the VSR will be connected directly to the car battery. The VSR will switch on when the engine is running and charge the small 12v battery, the power magic pro will be connected to the small battery and set to cutout at 12v and set to infinity for parking mode. that's it. I'll pop some photos up when complete.
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