Anybody???

 

With all these changes, the car will feel quite stiff, more direct with a higher brake away limit. Aligment will be critical to get the best from it.

Brake pad operating temps vary pending application. Sporty fast road and track day pads may perform well at the limit and be more resiliant to brake fade, but lack the desired bite when cold, i.e. driving normally. Classic suggestions include Ferrodo DS2500, Pagid RS29 and EBC Yellow Stuff etc.
Changing the brake fluid for some track oritentated stuff with a higher boiling point will also help reduce fade at the limit. And finally swapping in steel bradied brake lines will improve the feel and application too, as they are less likely to swell as much as the oem items.

You could fit a thicker anti roll bars, polybush the subframe and differential, add underbody bracing etc, all this stiffens the chassis up, increasing response/feel.

Personally, I would prioritise the end of life items that need to be replaced first. I also would not fit the marjority this stuff unless i was tracking the car regularly. Roads a ****e here and I have way more fun driving a 1.0 clio flat out then I do trying to thread a 1500kg missile down the country roads.

 

Hello,

From what you say @damon and what I've seen online.

I will do these modifications on the car:

Suspension and Chassis Enhancements

1. Install ST Suspension Coilovers
2. Replace Front Tension Strut/Thrust Arms with Millway Street Bushings
3. Add Millway Rear Toe Links
4. Install H&R Front and Rear Anti-Roll Bars
5. Add MMR Adjustable Front Droplinks
6. Install Ultra Racing Underbody Bracing

Brake System Upgrades

1. Upgrade to Ferodo DS2500 Brake Pads (Front & Rear)
2. Install Goodridge Stainless Steel Braided Brake Lines
3. Use Motul RBF 660 Brake Fluid

Bushing and Drivetrain Improvements

1. Upgrade Rear Axle Subframe Bushings (PFR5-420 + PFR5-422)
2. Consider Upgrading Differential and Transmission Bushings
3. Replace Clutch Fork Pivot Pin with a Stainless Steel Version

Wheels and Tires

1. Equip Michelin Pilot Sport 4S Tires (225/40 R18 front, 245/35 R18 rear)
2. Install Ferricgrey Alloy Wheels

Engine and Lighting

1. Upgrade with a VRSF Intercooler and Charge Pipe
2. Stage 2+
3. Replace Lighting with LED Kits

Alignment and Setup

1. Adjust Camber, Toe, and Caster Setting

What do you think of it? What will you prioritize in first?

 

I think it is not worth the money. I would not do any of this.

 

@damon, what you will do instead?

 

What's the cost of all those upgrades Dimitri?

 

About 3k for the one in priority

 

From what I've read online, it's very difficult to get much more out of this chassis without installing an LSD which is quite an expensive upgrade. Also, unfortunately the N55 has a bit of an achillies heel in it's oiling system - prolonged G forces while turning can cause oil starvation which can wreck the motor. There are temp fixes like overfilling the oil but realistically for any hardcore regular track use you probably want to upgrade the oiling system.

With all of this in mind, you'd need to seriously sink in alot of money to get the M135i to where I think you want it. So, like the other guy said, I don't think it's worth sinking this much money into the car.

If it was me, I'd keep the stock suspension and put lowering springs on. That will stiffen it up enough for you to have your fun on the B roads/track. Definitely remap it, arguably the best thing about these cars is how much power you can make while spending so little money. Then just keep up to date with the maintenance and get an M2 when you can afford one