I suspect you already know the short answer which is yes you would be putting more strain on the box, turbo, injectors etc etc. it’s inevitable really when you run the system out of spec. Whether the small risk of something catastrophically bad happening is worth it is up to you to decide.

At that mileage you have an increased risk of failure even running stock and it could be argued that you are risking less monetary value than someone who tunes a brand new car. I’d be tempted to change the box and diff oil once more to give it a fighting chance since you’ve done 40k on the box oil now and possibly never touched the diff. An LSD swap might be considered in fact. Oh and use decent high octane fuel with a cleaning additive since you won’t want a dodgy stuck injector.

At least you don’t have a gpf to worry about. For peace of mind you could get a compression test and some other diagnostics done first to check it’s actually as healthy as you think. No point in tuning an engine with a problem really.

 

I suspect you already know the short answer which is yes you would be putting more strain on the box, turbo, injectors etc etc. it’s inevitable really when you run the system out of spec. Whether the small risk of something catastrophically bad happening is worth it is to you.

At that mileage you have an increased risk of failure even running stock and it could be argued that you are risking less monetary value than someone who tunes a brand new car. I’d be tempted to change the box and diff oil once more to give it a fighting chance since you’ve done 40k ok the box oil now and possibly never touched the diff. An LSD swap might be considered in fact. Oh and use decent high octane fuel with a cleaning additive since you won’t want a dodgy stuck injector.

At least you don’t have a gpf to worry about. For peace of mind you could get a compression test and some other diagnostics done first to check it’s actually as healthy as you think. No point in tuning an engine with a problem really.

Cheers Padders.

I know I'll be adding some strain on to all components, just didn't know how much a stage 1 actually strains stuff - especially compared to guys who are running stage 2, 2+, pure 800 etc.
Diff oil was changed at the same time as the gearbox.

I was looking at either WG Motorworks, who have said they'd do a full engine health check and smoke test beforehand, or TRS Performance who have offered the same.

I always run the car on Tesco Momentum 99.

 

imo the engine can take it. but its all a roll of the dice. a compression check would help health check inside the engine as would an oil sample analysis see just what is in your oil for a good assessment they are pretty cheap over here.

 

Good shout lad!
will do so and go from there

 

I think you’ve given yourself the best possible chance with how the car is maintained. I’m in a similar boat, car is mainly sat in 8th and never thrashed from cold.

I’m on 125k miles now and I’ve been tuned in one way or another since 50k miles.

Outside of normal servicing, I’ve had the odd suspension component need replacing and that’s always been preventative maintenance when flagged by the garage. The batteries on the TPMS sensors have started to go as well, but I’m just changing those as they fail.

 

Oh wow! Nice to meet another high mileage M140i! Your comment alone has given me a lot of peace of mind, as I feel we are in uncharted waters so to speak as most are still around 30-50k miles haha.

I've just swapped my shocks and springs for coilovers, so they should be sound - however ball joints etc are all still OEM and from factory, so 8 years old. I expect to change them as and when, same as yourself.

TPMS are all brand new too as the wheels have been swapped recently too.

Out of interest, how much power are you running?

 

100k when you can account for every mile is probably a lot better than 20k on someone else’s lease queen they knew they’d be giving back.

If you wanted to be absolutely belt and braces I’d consider a set of injectors as injector failure seems to be about the only significant issue on stock or mildly tweaked B58s?

 

Very true. I think all but 20 miles in my car (production line and then the one time a tech took it on a test) have been done by myself and I've always treated the car with respect, so that's a reassuring way to think of it

The injectors do worry me, but I've heard revised ones can also go pop so I'm worried knowing my luck, that changing them will result in me getting one of the ones that stick lol

 

How's the carbon build up with the many motorway miles in 8th? If you don't punish the car by driving hard all the time then a remap should cause you no issues or chill with 400hp instead. I would change the injectors to reduce the risk if I was mapping it though as has already been mentioned. Purely just down to the mileage and for peace of mind but even then it's a Russian roulette.

 

...then a remap should cause you no issues or chill with 400hp instead...

Can someone under 50 explain to me what this means please?

 

There was something I couldn't place when thinking on this some more, its the 100k miles thing, I thought you lads were on the metric system which I thought we stole from you, like all the bread and shoes that got us sent to the prison island in the first place. lols

the conversion puts you over 160K km's for me this is in the territory of not if but when you will have an issue, I know you have looked after your baby but if we are honest its done a few track days, and these things are meant to be shown off I highly doubt you would not have had a few show off laps with ya mates. but all good I just wouldn't look for a false sense of security with this mileage. regardless of who put what on it or how. It really is a roll of the dice. They are very strong motors but bearings wear out, piston pins and rings wear out. And who knows when the engine builder was putting it all together he had a hangover from a fight with the missus. Over here it became quite common in our home built cars of Ford and Holden that some monday cars and friday cars were most often bad, monday - hangovers and friday they just wanna go home. wednesdays were usually good cars. But we are a rough bogan mob, the germans have it better but you still got to wonder at 7000rpm on a gear change from 2nd to 3rd out onto the straight....

Apologies for the rant and analogy, I used to train bodybuilders in a past life and they love putting stuff in their bodies and going by what the feels are or by what ol mate has done. Do not guess I used to tell them you cant know whats going on under the hood with out some blood tests at least then make an informed decision. same here imo applies. I you going to continue to track the car and want piece of mind I would be looking in to the following, none of which would be too costly over there I would hope, they arent here;

• Compression check.
• Bore scope.
• injector clean and test.
• engine, tranny and diff oil analysis. Change em all at the same time
• check every bolt, hose and pipe on the engine. Replace the charge pipe with an alloy unit.
• diff and tranny play check.

maybe do the transmission tune first, then see if you want to wind the engine up. I think you will be happy with just the transmission tune. or do it all and be prepared for an engine rebuild in the back of your mind, then you can come back stronger with big hp and make a real show car of your baby. I would advise against looking for false sense of security. sorry m2c.

 

Thing is, there's examples over in the states of M240i's and M340i's that have been tracked and are on 250k+ miles on original running gear with maps.
But then other example of 20-30k mile cars blowing up due to the injectors.

It's so hit and miss :S

 

All good suggestions IMO.


I’d be the other way round though, leave the box alone and try a mild stage 1 engine tune. The box is already running at max torque capacity as std and xHP runs it out of std spec to gain snappier changes and removes torque limits in the lower gears so I’d expect more chance of issues with box software tweaks than without.

 

good point I was thinking from a track day fun pov.

 

Giving it a tune on dyno will help parameters.

 

My M135i was tuned at 110k, now 114k. Running 2+ and nothing has blown up.

Send it!

 

Figured I might as well go Stage 1, stop worrying about stuff and if it does go bang, I'll go and buy a "B58R", rated for 900whp from Puma and slap that puppy in my car lol.

 

eyes wide open and pull the trigger yeah ha go boi.

ps ill race ya

 

Last one to run out of fuel wins

 

If it helps anybody I got remap at 110K - stage 2 Milltek exhaust & Darkside developments FMIC, I've just gone over 160K miles. All dynos report different figues I'd say about 30-35% increase in torque. The 6HP19 has a limit of 295lb-ft at 4000 revs or 560ll-ft overall but at 4K revs has to be <= 295lb-ft which suits diesels with petrols building their power up at high revs could be a problem...

I change the ATF sump, mechatronic sleeve and 6HP Lifeguard ATF every 60K, 2 oil services a year, change the coolant, power steering, rear diff oil every 100K or 10 years. Do about 6K a year, short 2 mile journey to work and 240 mile motorway round trip once a month. Due to the short station journey I change the oil/oil filter twice a year. Use Motul Specific 5W-40 LL04. Change the Air Oil Separator every 5 years or 50 miles. Change the fuel filter and air filter every third year & BP Ultimate Diesel.

Things do wear out but the car is coming up to it's 20th birthday...Recently did the full A/C heating system, condensor, evaporator, compressor, expansion valve, o-rings, seals, blend actuators, thermostat and blower unit and regulator. I doubt remap had anything to do with the A/C system failing...

Thinking of doing the Sonnax Zip Kit Zip Kit® - ZF6-053-ZIP and a ZHP transmission...