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So I recently got a new air filter on my car, (BMW 1 series 116d f20 1.5L) and I’m still wanting more horsepower so I was considering a remap. Remaps online offer around 32 bhp gain and 61 nm torque gain. Will this make much of a difference? I have a warranty on the car, which I know will be voided but will they instantly be notified as soon as the remap happens? Or when I take to be serviced or MOT etc
I also saw a racing chip, which would boost by 24bhp and 60nm. Similar price to the remap but obviously not permanent .
Which is better? And will either give a noticeable boost in acceleration/ speed?
 

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Hello, and welcome to the forum!


Remaps online offer around 32 bhp gain and 61 nm torque gain. Will this make much of a difference?
After the increase, you would end up with a similar level of horsepower and torque to a 118d (slightly more). In my opinion it is a significant difference, but whether it is significant enough is entirely up to you - I'd recommend you to test drive a 118d to see if it has the grunt you're looking for; if you're happy with it, you've got your answer. ;)

I have a warranty on the car, which I know will be voided but will they instantly be notified as soon as the remap happens? Or when I take to be serviced or MOT etc
If it went to BMW for service, MOT or recall, they would know and would note it down, thus voiding your warranty. However, it is also possible for a dealer to see whether a car is currently (or has ever been) tuned and your warranty therefore would be voided on the spot if you ever tried to make a claim on it. In short, if you are to go ahead with a remap (or a tuning box for that matter) - you can assume from that point that your vehicle has no warranty.

I also saw a racing chip, which would boost by 24bhp and 60nm. Similar price to the remap but obviously not permanent .
Which is better?
Across the internet you'll find a good many who've had poor experiences with both. I'd recommend a read of Remaps/Tuning - Info for members which contains some useful information.
 

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My understanding is that it wouldn’t void your warranty but void anything that could be effected by the remap.
Which is in effect everything that is expensive. Yes BMW might still entertain a claim against your wiper arms or sunroof or brakes perhaps, but I would think the warranty on anything engine, gearbox or drivetrain related would be nixed. If you only have a few months remaining and really want the extra power then it may well be worth it (who doesn't want more power), but on a car with a big chunk of the warranty remaining it needs serious consideration before throwing it away.
 
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How old are you? Don’t forget to factor insurance into it, you’ll need to inform it as a mod. If you’re young, it might not be worth the increase.
 

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I was considering extending the used approved warranty on my car. I explicitly asked the claims department about what happens with the warranty on the vehicle if I modify it. I was told that the warranty would be voided. I also asked if the entire warranty would be voided, or just warranty on any parts that might be affected by the modification. The answer was clear, the entire warranty would be voided, whether or not the modification could be in any way related to to failure.
 

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I was considering extending the used approved warranty on my car. I explicitly asked the claims department about what happens with the warranty on the vehicle if I modify it. I was told that the warranty would be voided. I also asked if the entire warranty would be voided, or just warranty on any parts that might be affected by the modification. The answer was clear, the entire warranty would be voided, whether or not the modification could be in any way related to to failure.
I am sure that is correct but be aware that AFAIK the extended warranty is operated by Allianz and is rather different from the 3 year manufacturers warranty. At least that is the case for new car extended warranty. You might get some goodwill from BMW UK on an unrelated faulty item on a modded car in years 1-3 particularly if the car has been dealer serviced, but I doubt that extends to subsequent years as you found.
 

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The 1 Series goes up to around 340 BHP depending on the model in question, so as mentioned, you need to be sure that a relatively modest extra +32/+24 BHP is really going to satisfy your desire for more power. No point in all of this effort if you eventually decide you need to trade up to something that's +150BHP.

If you're still in warranty or planning to extend it, then all the contracts I reviewed when I did this emphatically waived all liability if any mods were made. The only grey area was with BMW M Performance parts retro-fitted by an official dealer: a few policies included my dealer-fitted MP LSD, but many cheaper policies didn't (and didn't make it clear up-front - only down in the fine print or on the last page of a long online application form).
 

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I have a 2012 118d on 55k and did the remap mainly to help remove the clutch judder when setting off. Certainly did that and engine runs smoother, if your engine been looked after then I would say go for it. Just don't go crazy with anything other than stage 1 personally, at that end your just as well getting a faster car to start with.

Also 100% tell the insurance. Im 39 with only 1 year no claims (had company car for last few years so no no-claims of my own till recently). Was only £45 to add it and half of that was admin fee with Admiral.
 

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It is worth saying again, if you want a faster car, sell up and buy a faster car. Your headroom for reliable power increases on a 3 cylinder B37 or B38 are extremely limited. If you can, get yourself into a B48 or better still B58 engined car. Why you ask? Well firstly you might find there is no need to fiddle and even if you do, the headroom will be higher. If you dive down the rabbit hole of modding, you may well find that you spend more in the long run by modding what you have than if you just swapped and as noted above, insurance companies and warranty folks don't like it!
 

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So I recently got a new air filter on my car, (BMW 1 series 116d f20 1.5L) and I’m still wanting more horsepower ...
Go for a test drive in a 120, a 125, and if you can find one, a 135 or 140. Figure out how much "whoosh" you desire - then maybe trade up to one of those. Mods are sometimes dodgy, and almost always annoy insurance companies.
 

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I have a 2012 118d on 55k and did the remap mainly to help remove the clutch judder when setting off. Certainly did that and engine runs smoother, if your engine been looked after then I would say go for it. Just don't go crazy with anything other than stage 1 personally, at that end your just as well getting a faster car to start with.

Also 100% tell the insurance. Im 39 with only 1 year no claims (had company car for last few years so no no-claims of my own till recently). Was only £45 to add it and half of that was admin fee with Admiral.
did you check to see if your car has a CDV (clutch delay valve) before the remap ?
 
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