Baby BMW Forum banner
1 - 20 of 21 Posts

Registered
Joined
43 Posts
Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Hi all,

It looks like my 2008 E82 has a lot of rust underneath the car. I started to worry about the rust on the rear axle carrier since it doesn't look like superficial to me. Do you suggest replacing the the whole carrier with the one in a good condition?

Wheel Tire Automotive tire Vehicle Tread

Automotive tire Car Tread Tire Automotive exterior

Tire Automotive tire Wood Wheel Automotive exterior

Automotive tire Motor vehicle Automotive exterior Gas Automotive wheel system

Automotive tire Motor vehicle Automotive exterior Rim Automotive wheel system

Wheel Tire Vehicle Automotive tire Car

Tire Vehicle Wheel Automotive tire Tread
 

Registered
Joined
43 Posts
Discussion Starter · #3 ·
As there is a rust hole RH lower inner bolt area yes needs sorting,it will fail one day !
maybe not a hole? looks crap and common issue,dont think painted well from new..
Yes, I think there is already a small hole. Luckily the subframe is the same with the one on E87. So it is pretty easy to find another used one.
 

Registered
Joined
2,032 Posts
I think there are far worse rear subframes out there on E series cars. It will need replacing in the future if you don't treat it but I don't think there is an immediate rush. Most of it looks superficial to me, I think if you removed the subframe and cleaned it up with a wire wheel you'd find the metal underneath was fine. Then treat and paint with POR15 and a top coat and it would be good for years. Easier to buy a second subframe, rub down, treat, paint and then fit to the car though.
 

Registered
Joined
43 Posts
Discussion Starter · #5 ·
I think there are far worse rear subframes out there on E series cars. It will need replacing in the future if you don't treat it but I don't think there is an immediate rush. Most of it looks superficial to me, I think if you removed the subframe and cleaned it up with a wire wheel you'd find the metal underneath was fine. Then treat and paint with POR15 and a top coat and it would be good for years. Easier to buy a second subframe, rub down, treat, paint and then fit to the car though.
Thank you for your reply. I am relieved that it doesn't look dangerously bad at the moment. Just because of the hole, I think that finding another carrier will make me feel safer but I will definitely apply POR15 on it. I will now casually look for another subframe.
 

Registered
Joined
246 Posts
DUDE this is a 14 year old car, MOST car's are toast by now, a lot looks like surface, you COULD and depends on your pocket or what you want to do, is get the underside, dry iced and then have a wax preservative done, it's not cheap.
These car's hold out, my 1'er, when I sold it, was just like new, (2012 bought by me in 2015, sold in 2020, 150k from 22k)

I say dry iced, because less damage that blasting and you WILL need every spot removed otherwise undercoating with even a spot, will make it rust out 100 times worse, painting over rust is a BAD idea and far worse than just leaving it

Hi all,

It looks like my 2008 E82 has a lot of rust underneath the car. I started to worry about the rust on the rear axle carrier since it doesn't look like superficial to me. Do you suggest replacing the the whole carrier with the one in a good condition?

View attachment 17358
View attachment 17355
View attachment 17360
View attachment 17361
View attachment 17357
View attachment 17356
View attachment 17359
 

Registered
Joined
246 Posts
also with undercoating make sure or the 3rd party MUST make sure ALL drain holes are clear otherwise bye bye car
 

Registered
Joined
246 Posts
many many years ago, I had a 1.6 GL Capri mk.2, white (80's ?) and I was green, and I saw what I thought was 2 or 3 holes at the bottom of my tailgate with some flakes of rust, I quickly proceeded to fiber glass, bondo and paint them, the tailgate was awesome.. NUMBNUTS here closed up the drain holes, in 4 months the tailgate split at the bottom and fell apart... LESSON LEARNED not all holes are bad...

hmmmm "not all holes are bad" there's a joke there somewhere LOL
 
  • Haha
Reactions: BaronTR

Administrator
Joined
4,015 Posts
I wouldn't bother having a 1er ice blasted. I had my car on stands over lockdown with all underbody protection removed. There are a few dirt traps that will need clearing out, blasting won't be suitable as it'll just force the mud/salt further into the cavities. You'll probably find rust on studs and a couple of exposed areas of the chassis, ice won't remove that, it needs proper mechanical removal and the metal treating with more than just a wax. The rest of the underside has both protective panels and rubberised underbody seal, it comes up fine with degreaser and detailing brush. Basically, dry ice blasting is both too aggressive for some of what you'll need to do, and not aggressive enough for the rest! It's great for cleaning engines/gearboxes or for tidying up classic cars with an exposed chassis, but for anything daily driven and fairly modern with underbody protection, acoustic panels etc. it's not a great way to spend money. Not a common thing over here either, the cost to ice a 1er would probably be a decent chunk of its value!

Mine got degreased, rust was removed, neutralised then POR-15'd, then that was painted over with OEM underbody seal. Gave the rest a couple of coats of Dynax S50 or UB depending on where it was. Those or Dinitrol's products will do a great job, don't get waxoil within 6 feet of the car unless you hate either the car or yourself :eek2:

Treating the subframe in-situ would be a bodge, IMHO Jon's approach of restore/treating a second frame off the car is the best for a DIYer. Even if you then have a garage install it you'll save a fortune over having someone else restore it. I was planning to have one grit blasted then metallized, but the price of that has gone through the roof over the last 18 months :(
 

Registered
Joined
246 Posts
I've both waxoiled and had a car which was waxoiled as long as it's done properly there is absolutely nothing wrong with it. One car lasted many many many years, one which was a Ford which was a known rust bucket was told by an MOT inspector he hadn't seen a car in that condition for a long time and it looked factory.

Those or Dinitrol's products will do a great job, don't get waxoil within 6 feet of the car unless you hate either the car or yourself :eek2:
 

Administrator
Joined
4,015 Posts
Waxoil doesn't inhibit corrosion, it stays sticky/greasy (making working in the area a total chore), and it doesn't actually bond to the substrate chemically so as it ages it bubbles, flakes and peels away. It doesn鈥檛 resist erosion or rock chips at all, and it doesn't self-heal when they happen. Because waxoil stays sticky, rocks, salt etc. that impact the chassis can get embedded and held up against the bare metal they've penetrated through to. As soon as the coating fails anywhere either by age or damage, water and road salt will creep in, start chemically displacing the coating around that area, and rotting out whatever's underneath it. These little patches can be invisible, meaning that even if you do inspect the coating which 99% of people don't, the damage will continue. If it is noticed, the waxoil needs to be cleaned off to a decent distance from the area (good luck with that), the rust underneath it treated, then the coating re-applied. You'll always miss some damage too, because as mentioned above most of the failed spots will be completely undetectable. If they're not sorted after the winter, the little pockets of trapped water/salt get nice and toasty during the warmer months thanks to waxoil retaining heat, accelerating the corrosion that you can't see.

Waxoil is better than nothing if it's applied properly and aftercare is kept up on, but it's still obsolete nowadays. Treating the car with a modern corrosion-inhibiting hard-drying cavity-penetrating metal-wicking self-healing synthetic wax will cost roughly the same as waxoil, whilst having none of the downsides or aftercare needs, being incomparably more effective in the long run, and still being much easier/cleaner to apply.

If I had a quid for every old boy on Landy forums who's posted about how his waxoiled defender needs chassis work because of hidden rust under the coating but still swears by the stuff I'd be on the Rennlist instead of BabyBMW lol. But it's name brand, it achieves the bare minimum, and it's an easy moneymaker for garages so it sticks around 馃し鈥嶁檪锔
 

Registered
Joined
43 Posts
Discussion Starter · #19 ·
Which hole are you referring to? The subframe has a water drain hole at the bottom where the camber arm bush is located, that's the only one I can see. Hope I haven't missed anything obvious
You are right! I thought they were holes but apparently not. Here is one example I found online.
I think I won't touch the subframe for the time being. Thanks for the comments!

Wheel Automotive tail & brake light Tire Motor vehicle Automotive lighting
 
1 - 20 of 21 Posts
Top