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I don't think anyone has run Birds and Eibach, BP has run H&R and Birds.

Part number looks the same as mine, I think.

Adaptive just means there's one extra wire on the front to unclip, adds 1 minute per side if you have banana fingers.
 

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pitbull666 said:
I believe the F20 sits slightly lower (rear) then the F21 does an auto Vs manual weight difference effect the ride height at all?

Can any member with an auto F20 on Eibachs post pics please
Ever so slightly. Will probably around 2mm difference.
 

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Paul CS said:


There's something about that photo, my car on Eibachs. It look quite a bit lower than it is in reality. Anyway, a few months on, it's still brilliant and I'm so glad I had them fitted. Bargain price too!

Paul
 

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Discussion Starter · #10 ·
Blind Pugh said:
Sustanon250 said:
My f20, auto , Eibachs, really couldn't be happier with it and imho how it should have come from the factory .

Sus - both yours and Paul CS's LCI 5dr auto have a level, spot on stance with Eibachs.

Good to see as before they were too nose down with almost too much of a drop at the front and not enough at the rear.

:thumbs:
BP
BP

Do you think it's a slight change in the springs sold by Eibach or a different part altogether?

I've seen a few nose heavy stanced M135i's mainly F21's but the F20's I've seen look more level! But then Chris's above looks spot on hmmm

Sus and Paul are your Eibachs the same part number as I posted in my first post?
 

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The stance of these just looks perfect. Definitely something I hope to fit.
Gary
 

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Manual cars, and 3 door cars, are lighter (especially in the rear).

Because of that mine looked more raked that those 3^. Same springs, different weight cars.
 

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Pitbull,

I wouldnt be at all surprised if Eibach have revised their products of late.

I'm not buying the 3dr manual v 5dr auto weight delta is the cause for obvious lack of nose down stance and high rears of the early eibach adopters, when more recent Eibach customers are getting a much leveller stance.

BP
 

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dape90 said:
So if I only wanted to lower the car but not change the spring rates to much what is the best option. And what impact does this have on my warranty?
Changing the springs could nuke the warranty on your suspension, unless BMW put it in writing otherwise.

I did a few 'calculations' on various spring sets from their TUV Certs, see below. Eibach have the smallest increase in front poundage, and their rears are the spring rate same as stock. Interestingly H&R rears are softer than stock, I wonder if that's because they lower the car so much they compress the bump stop?

OEM M135i Front = 90 lb/inch
OEM M135i Rears = 383 lb/inch

OEM M235i Front = 141 lb/inch
OEM M235i Rears = 417 lb/inch

H&R M135i Front = 145 lb/inch
H&R M135i Rear = 348 lb/inch

H&R M235i Front = 131 lb/inch
H&R M235i Rear = 392 lb/inch

Eibach Front = 120 lb/inch
Eibach Rear = 384 lb/inch
 

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Blind Pugh said:
Pitbull,

I wouldnt be at all surprised if Eibach have revised their products of late.

I'm not buying the 3dr manual v 5dr auto weight delta is the cause for obvious lack of nose down stance and high rears of the early eibach adopters, when more recent Eibach customers are getting a much leveller stance.

BP
This was ColinG's Auto back in 2013:
Petay135's Auto in 2013:
 

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Thanks for the plug Dave! :D

Just to clarify, there is no OEM lowering option that will retain warranty for the BMW 1/2 Series save for the M Performance Suspension kit available for cars with non adaptive suspension. Any other modification will void the warranty on the suspension components. Personally, I wouldn't bother with that whole kit and get some decent coilovers.

To add some insight from H&R regarding spring rate data, I'd very much recommend the following input from:

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(Emphasis added)

Spring Rate 101. by Roland Graef.
Suspension customers shopping for aftermarket springs will sometimes resort to shopping for springs by spring rate. While the rate of the spring is a measure of spring performance, it is not the only influence of vehicle performance and handling, especially when the chassis is lowered. There are many factors that come into play when it comes to suspension tuning.

When does a higher rate spring feel softer than a lower rate spring and a lower rate feel harder than higher rate spring? These differences occur when you lower the chassis and the bumpstop is trimmed or not trimmed.The bumpstop acts like a small progressive spring (see Micro Cellular Jounce Bumper). A lower rate spring that lowers the ride height of the chassis with no bumpstop trimming, making the bumpstop more active, would feel about as stiff as a higher rate lowering spring with the bumpstop trimmed, making the bumpstop less active. Also, the amount of ride height lowering also affects suspension rate.

Since there is no standard for quoting spring rates, most manufacturers just quote numbers without any regard for spring function and spring rate ramping-spring rate ramping is the difference in ride feel between springs of different shapes with the same spring rates under suspension compression. The only way to truly compare spring rates is by using working spring rate numbers.

When a manufacturer quotes a progressive spring rate such as 80lbs, 150lbs, 225lbs, and the stock rate is a linear 135lbs, the new spring looks super progressive. Visually it seems to start off softer than stock and gets progressively stiffer as needed. But what these rates don't tell you is that the chassis is already sitting at the 170lbs rate at loaded height. This means the "working spring rate" is actually 170lbs to 225lbs. The lower spring rate range below 170lbs is the dead or inactive spring coils which do nothing but give the spring tension at full rebound. Note that this does not take into consideration the bump stop engagement and their effect on chassis ride height with the installed lowering springs. This is only one example of why using the "working spring rate" is more accurate when making comparisons. It is also important to have already driven on a different rate than stock to feel the difference before making any comparisons based on the quoted rates.

There are many other factors that influence suspension rate that include, but are not limited to: Shock dampening values, tires, bushings, and of course the most important "personal driving style".

Keep in mind that if you're shopping for springs based only on spring rates, then you are not taking into account a number of other variables that affect ride height, performance, and comfort.
I have a bit of a mixed setup on my car, M135i 5dr Auto with Adaptive dampers, I have M Performance Springs in the front and AC Schnitzer springs in the rear. A very odd and unusual setup but done purely for aesthetics. Originally, I had M Performance Springs all round.

M Performance Springs all round:



Current Setup: MP Front and ACS Rear:


 
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