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I've got the same engine, unfortunately they're known to be pretty unreliable which I've learnt the hard way. I too have had the timing chain replaced and also all four injectors 馃槩

I actually had the same issue after my timing chain got replaced where the oil pressure warning was still showing. As commented earlier by other members, its common for the plastic guides the chain sits on to break up and block the oil pump so the sump needs to be dropped and cleaned out of any plastic pieces. Luckily my garage did that and even kept the pieces just to show me how much had dropped into the sump!

Now that I knew a proper job had been done I was stumped as to why the oil pressure warning was still showing (Even when clearing code it would always return). I then found out about a part called the oil pressure relief valve. Its a cheap part, only 拢50. I changed it and Voila no more oil pressure warning and it hasn't returned in 10k miles with the timing chain still perfect.

Might be worth looking into if the timing chain is no longer under warranty with that garage as it won't be cheap for them to drop the sump and inspect. Part number is 11417584990.
 

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Discussion Starter · #22 ·
I've got the same engine, unfortunately they're known to be pretty unreliable which I've learnt the hard way. I too have had the timing chain replaced and also all four injectors 馃槩

I actually had the same issue after my timing chain got replaced where the oil pressure warning was still showing. As commented earlier by other members, its common for the plastic guides the chain sits on to break up and block the oil pump so the sump needs to be dropped and cleaned out of any plastic pieces. Luckily my garage did that and even kept the pieces just to show me how much had dropped into the sump!

Now that I knew a proper job had been done I was stumped as to why the oil pressure warning was still showing (Even when clearing code it would always return). I then found out about a part called the oil pressure relief valve. Its a cheap part, only 拢50. I changed it and Voila no more oil pressure warning and it hasn't returned in 10k miles with the timing chain still perfect.

Might be worth looking into if the timing chain is no longer under warranty with that garage as it won't be cheap for them to drop the sump and inspect. Part number is 11417584990.
thats fab thank you :)
 

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Really ?? I read online the mot testers won't check the engine etc if not on the MOT checklist and worst thing they can do is refuse to test the car ??
That being said I'm also taking this as a massive plus !!!


P.s you can call me Jess !!! I signed up with my email address so it took my username from there 馃ぃ
From memory, I think a car can still pass its MOT even if there is a low oil pressure light. However, a tester is well within their rights to refuse to do the test if the oil level is low. Ultimately it means that that either the light wasn't there when the MOT was conducted, or the tester disregarded it for the purpose of the test.

I really hope you have some luck with this Jess. Do let us know when you have some news 馃
 
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Really ?? I read online the mot testers won't check the engine etc if not on the MOT checklist and worst thing they can do is refuse to test the car ??
That being said I'm also taking this as a massive plus !!!


P.s you can call me Jess !!! I signed up with my email address so it took my username from there 馃ぃ

Hi Jess, any thing lit up on the dash is a fail!
 

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I'm new to this thread, but not to BMWs. I'm no expert, BUT, until you get it thoroughly inspected by someone who "really knows" BMWs, I'd hold off driving it. Depending on what you paid for it, you may still be okay with having the work done properly. What year is the 118i and is it a N52 or N54 engine. Here in the states, you can pick up a used N52 or N54 fairly reasonable. I just acquired a 2009 135i E88 (convertible). I'm still sorting it out. I'm also new to turbos, so there's a learning curve. Do you folks have any local BMW groups in your area, they can be a very helpful lot. A friend of mine and I sorted out a classic E34 540i (HE53) with a factory 6 speed manual. We also have a 2000 Z3 that we have probably put 4k-5k in since we have had it going on three years, with the money being put in w/in the first 18 months and well worth every penny. I bought the 2009 135i so I could have a daily driver. Why so lengthy a response? It's really meant to encourage you and help with the reality that some BMWs can cost a bit to sort out, BUT you'd probably have a challenge in buying a new one for much less than 30k to 40k. If it does cost a couple thousand and if done properly, you should have something reliable that will last you...
 

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I'm new to this thread, but not to BMWs. I'm no expert, BUT, until you get it thoroughly inspected by someone who "really knows" BMWs, I'd hold off driving it. Depending on what you paid for it, you may still be okay with having the work done properly. What year is the 118i and is it a N52 or N54 engine. Here in the states, you can pick up a used N52 or N54 fairly reasonable. I just acquired a 2009 135i E88 (convertible). I'm still sorting it out. I'm also new to turbos, so there's a learning curve. Do you folks have any local BMW groups in your area, they can be a very helpful lot. A friend of mine and I sorted out a classic E34 540i (HE53) with a factory 6 speed manual. We also have a 2000 Z3 that we have probably put 4k-5k in since we have had it going on three years, with the money being put in w/in the first 18 months and well worth every penny. I bought the 2009 135i so I could have a daily driver. Why so lengthy a response? It's really meant to encourage you and help with the reality that some BMWs can cost a bit to sort out, BUT you'd probably have a challenge in buying a new one for much less than 30k to 40k. If it does cost a couple thousand and if done properly, you should have something reliable that will last you...
Welcome to the forum!

OP is in the UK, where BMW field a much wider range of models and engines than they do in the US, starting from a much lower pricepoint to compete with other economy brands. Her 118i has the N43 engine, which, along with all of BMW's other 4-cylinder engines between roughly 2004 and 2015, is famous for poor reliability regardless of how well it's taken care of.


Spending a couple of thousand makes sense on a US 128i/135i thanks to their market position and much better residual value, but that's not far off the entire cost of one of an average 4-cylinder model 1er over here. Add that to the various significant issues the models are known for, and spending big to keep it going suddenly looks a lot less sensible!
 

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I own the same type of car, 2009 118i convertible. I would suggst to get the car sorted and split the bill with the previous owner. Because it is a local, the previous owner also benefits from a decent closure of this issue.
Maybe you are lucky and a clean of the oil inlet solves the problem. My personal experience with my former car (volvo v70); the second day I owned it I floored it and got an oil pressure light. I drove home sensibly, and several days after this, got this sorted (older volvos suffer from leakage in the oil sump, so the oil pump sucks in air in stead of oil), and owned it for another 120000 km with no issue on this.
So a red oil pressure light does not automatically mean the engine can be scrapped.

Some info on the NOx sensor message: this sensor dies after 80000-100000 km. The only downside is a slightly increased fuel consumption. You do not need to repair it. The only consequence is that the engine will not go into stratified charge mode (= a very lean mode during cruising). Replacement by a dealer is pretty expensive, it takes a lot of miles to earn this back.
A cheaper solution can be found here: https://bimmerprofs.com/ but takes quite some work with resetting all parameters in the motor management system.
Hope you get this all sorted soon!
 

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Discussion Starter · #29 ·
Hi all !!

So update is... As expected the NOx sensor, EGR valve and oil solenoid and that will clear all problems. They checked the timing chain and they are happy with it... No concerns what so ever with that or guides. So happy days really !

Although the NOx sensor is expensive at 拢383. just for the part as only BMW... All in all will cost 拢1366.55

But he jokingly guaranteed the lights would all be off and sorted. And we still got a good deal as it's a 6-7k car that we paid 4k for.

Happy but sad but happy at the same time !!!

Let's wait and see how next week goes once it's back !!
 

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Discussion Starter · #30 ·
I own the same type of car, 2009 118i convertible. I would suggst to get the car sorted and split the bill with the previous owner. Because it is a local, the previous owner also benefits from a decent closure of this issue.
Maybe you are lucky and a clean of the oil inlet solves the problem. My personal experience with my former car (volvo v70); the second day I owned it I floored it and got an oil pressure light. I drove home sensibly, and several days after this, got this sorted (older volvos suffer from leakage in the oil sump, so the oil pump sucks in air in stead of oil), and owned it for another 120000 km with no issue on this.
So a red oil pressure light does not automatically mean the engine can be scrapped.

Some info on the NOx sensor message: this sensor dies after 80000-100000 km. The only downside is a slightly increased fuel consumption. You do not need to repair it. The only consequence is that the engine will not go into stratified charge mode (= a very lean mode during cruising). Replacement by a dealer is pretty expensive, it takes a lot of miles to earn this back.
A cheaper solution can be found here: https://bimmerprofs.com/ but takes quite some work with resetting all parameters in the motor management system.
Hope you get this all sorted soon!
unfortunately when i contacted her at the beginning she wasnt interested! Private sale... so whatever! but yeah its likely she will see us driving through her village to my MIL!
 

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So update is... As expected the NOx sensor, EGR valve and oil solenoid and that will clear all problems. They checked the timing chain and they are happy with it... No concerns what so ever with that or guides. So happy days really !
Glad to hear it wasn't any worse than that!

Hopefully it gives you a good few years without throwing any more tantrums 馃憤
 

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Been following this thread with interest. Glad it looks like you got it sorted, boo that the previous owner won't help, but with all car purchases, caveat emptor.
 

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Discussion Starter · #34 ·
Been following this thread with interest. Glad it looks like you got it sorted, boo that the previous owner won't help, but with all car purchases, caveat emptor.
This is it ... You live and learn ! Isn't my first private purchase. Won't be my last. But hopeful that I won't make the same mistake again!!!
 

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Glad you have resolution Jess and not cost you too much, at least you're still in positive equity!
 

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Discussion Starter · #36 ·
Hi - Hope your all doing well!

So car update today. All works complete and faults cleared. but engine still sluggish. no faults coming up but now the garage is 'taking the lid off' to check the timing chain. They questioned if the reason the work was done in 2019 BECAUSE of the sluggish engine... of course i don't know. but hope thats not the case.

Oh and the drive shaft is rubbing on the ABS sensor... and battery has had it.

YAY....
 

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Sluggish is not a word that comes to my mind while driving my car. Try to drive another 118i as comparison.
But compared to modern turbo charged cars and turbo diesels it is not fast. Above 3000rpm it comes alive-ish.....
 

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Discussion Starter · #38 ·
Sluggish is not a word that comes to my mind while driving my car. Try to drive another 118i as comparison.
But compared to modern turbo charged cars and turbo diesels it is not fast. Above 3000rpm it comes alive-ish.....
Yeah I hadn't driven a petrol for a long time but it was slower than u expected it to be... They are going to check valve timings next...
 

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I hope not but maybe a cam shaft is one tooth off.
When you have it back you can test its 0-60 time, should be around 9-10 secs. When you need a calender to time your 0-60, something is very wrong.
 
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