Is the mini kit also compatible for cars without adaptive and running 19" wheels?

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Yes, I don't have adaptive & was initially on 19" wheels. My mate is also running that set up with 10mm spacers all round & looks perfect.

Thanks [emoji1303]
Don't suppose you fitted any yourself?
Wondered if it was a diy job

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Sadly I do not have the skills to fit & neither did my mate. We both used the same mobile mechanic who charged £200.

 

Dear all,

Great thread! Lots of good info. However, nobody is touching on an important topic when lowering our cars: alignment and negative camber correction.

As all modern cars with McPherson struts, our cars induce negative camber gain when the strut compresses, which in case of lowering via aftermarket springs is just that. Also, most modern general public cars, do not allow for camber adjustment in the front with OEM parts.

For all of you out there with a lowered car, what are your front camber figures after lowering?

I am more inclined to install a full coil over kit with upper camber plates (KW club sport) but these plates are not isolated from the chassis with an elastomer and do negatively impact confort and vibration (high frequency) when going over rough tarmac.

Any insights would be welcomed and helps us all. Thx!

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Ah hey thanks for checking Ajm. The new fronts arrived from Autodoc and i'm booked in for fitting next week. Will take it back for an alignment a couple of days later I think

I would advise an alignment check, mine were done at the point of fitting & some adjustment was necessary. I asked re waiting for them to settle etc but was told that was an internet myth… new cars out the factory are set up without any time to settle!

Dear all,

Great thread! Lots of good info. However, nobody is touching on an important topic when lowering our cars: alignment and negative camber correction.

As all modern cars with McPherson struts, our cars induce negative camber gain when the strut compresses, which in case of lowering via aftermarket springs is just that. Also, most modern general public cars, do not allow for camber adjustment in the front with OEM parts.

For all of you out there with a lowered car, what are your front camber figures after lowering?

I am more inclined to install a full coil over kit with upper camber plates (KW club sport) but these plates are not isolated from the chassis with an elastomer and do negatively impact confort and vibration (high frequency) when going over rough tarmac.

Any insights would be welcomed and helps us all. Thx!

Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk

 

Dear all,

Great thread! Lots of good info. However, nobody is touching on an important topic when lowering our cars: alignment and negative camber correction.

As all modern cars with McPherson struts, our cars induce negative camber gain when the strut compresses, which in case of lowering via aftermarket springs is just that. Also, most modern general public cars, do not allow for camber adjustment in the front with OEM parts.

For all of you out there with a lowered car, what are your front camber figures after lowering?

I am more inclined to install a full coil over kit with upper camber plates (KW club sport) but these plates are not isolated from the chassis with an elastomer and do negatively impact confort and vibration (high frequency) when going over rough tarmac.

Any insights would be welcomed and helps us all. Thx!

 

Dear all,

Great thread! Lots of good info. However, nobody is touching on an important topic when lowering our cars: alignment and negative camber correction.

As all modern cars with McPherson struts, our cars induce negative camber gain when the strut compresses, which in case of lowering via aftermarket springs is just that. Also, most modern general public cars, do not allow for camber adjustment in the front with OEM parts.

For all of you out there with a lowered car, what are your front camber figures after lowering?

I am more inclined to install a full coil over kit with upper camber plates (KW club sport) but these plates are not isolated from the chassis with an elastomer and do negatively impact confort and vibration (high frequency) when going over rough tarmac.

Any insights would be welcomed and helps us all. Thx!

For me, I don't know the exact figures. All I do know is when on the hunter four wheel alignment machine all the measurements were in green & within spec for the car. Not noticed any adverse effects on the tyre wear or handling so can only assume any changes to the original measurements must be minimal. Not the most technical answer granted but unless your looking at serious track driving Eibachs springs won't give you any problems & the effects to ride comfort are minimal, even with the lower option.

 

Thank you Ajm! Great info.

Our cars are not specially radical on factory alignment setup when it comes to negative camber in the front. According to BMWs official data, factory setting is 50' of negative camber in the front, which all you familiar with a sexagesimal numbering system, know it means almost 60' or 1 full degree.

Other cars/brands with more radical factory setups for induced behavior when cornering run close to 1,5 degrees negative or thereabouts.

Anyway, I will most likely decide to go the route of lowering springs rather than a full coil over setup. I don't intend to track the car, springs come at a fraction of the cost, and they are more conspicuous at the dealership for when I take the car into service.

Schummi2k

 

Thanks, it does still look quite high and the gap is visible. Guess Eibach will have to come in. 555s look amazing, though. Really wished they didn't look so good because now I am tempted on 19s + springs.

JCW springs (25mm all round) & 18" wheels with 10mm spacers.

Hey there Ajm!

On the M Performance side skirts, I don't see a dedicated thread for them so please do excuse me posting about the here:

I just installed them today. On your car, do they stay firm in the back where the fin is? When I rock mine from the tip of the fin, they move quite a bit. I have followed the instructions from BMW and used all the supplied rivets and stuff…

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Thanks, it does still look quite high and the gap is visible. Guess Eibach will have to come in. 555s look amazing, though. Really wished they didn't look so good because now I am tempted on 19s + springs.

JCW springs (25mm all round) & 18" wheels with 10mm spacers.

Hey there Ajm!

On the M Performance side skirts, I don't see a dedicated thread for them so please do excuse me posting about the here:

I just installed them today. On your car, do they stay firm in the back where the fin is? When I rock mine from the tip of the fin, they move quite a bit. I have followed the instructions from BMW and used all the supplied rivets and stuff…

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Yes, mine move around a bit too. Sounds normal mate.

 

Dear all,

Great thread! Lots of good info. However, nobody is touching on an important topic when lowering our cars: alignment and negative camber correction.

As all modern cars with McPherson struts, our cars induce negative camber gain when the strut compresses, which in case of lowering via aftermarket springs is just that. Also, most modern general public cars, do not allow for camber adjustment in the front with OEM parts.

For all of you out there with a lowered car, what are your front camber figures after lowering?

I am more inclined to install a full coil over kit with upper camber plates (KW club sport) but these plates are not isolated from the chassis with an elastomer and do negatively impact confort and vibration (high frequency) when going over rough tarmac.

Any insights would be welcomed and helps us all. Thx!

Sorry for the late reply, I have only just seen this thread

Here is my geometry sheet printout after BMW adjusted it following the Eibach spring fitment. They said it wasn't far out at all. They had a lowered car already in their database so used the figures from that to get it aligned. They said there would be no warranty problems either, the geometry correction was sufficient for them to maintain warranty on the car

The two figures in red are because the car is lower than the computer was expecting, but in tolerance

Car before fitment:

After fitment with summer 557M wheels and OEM Bridgestones:

And after fitment with winter 554M in orbit grey (225/45 R18 Yokohama w-Drive v905):

 

Dear all,

Great thread! Lots of good info. However, nobody is touching on an important topic when lowering our cars: alignment and negative camber correction.

As all modern cars with McPherson struts, our cars induce negative camber gain when the strut compresses, which in case of lowering via aftermarket springs is just that. Also, most modern general public cars, do not allow for camber adjustment in the front with OEM parts.

For all of you out there with a lowered car, what are your front camber figures after lowering?

I am more inclined to install a full coil over kit with upper camber plates (KW club sport) but these plates are not isolated from the chassis with an elastomer and do negatively impact confort and vibration (high frequency) when going over rough tarmac.

Any insights would be welcomed and helps us all. Thx!

Sorry for the late reply, I have only just seen this thread

Here is my geometry sheet printout after BMW adjusted it following the Eibach spring fitment. They said it wasn't far out at all. They had a lowered car already in their database so used the figures from that to get it aligned. They said there would be no warranty problems either, the geometry correction was sufficient for them to maintain warranty on the car

The two figures in red are because the car is lower than the computer was expecting, but in tolerance

Car before fitment:

After fitment with summer 557M wheels and OEM Bridgestones:

And after fitment with winter 554M in orbit grey (225/45 R18 Yokohama w-Drive v905):

Is this the 25mm or 30mm front drop springs?

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I have the kit ajm posted on page 1. Its the 25mm front and 15mm rear - Eibach kit E10-57-005-02-22

If anyone's interested i have an unused pair of the 30mm front springs from the other kit in my garage, PM me if you're interested, you'd just need the rear pair (autodoc sell them under part number F11-57-005-01-RA)

Cheers

 

I have the kit ajm posted on page 1. Its the 25mm front and 15mm rear - Eibach kit E10-57-005-02-22

If anyone's interested i have an unused pair of the 30mm front springs from the other kit in my garage, PM me if you're interested, you'd just need the rear pair (autodoc sell them under part number F11-57-005-01-RA)

Cheers

U happy with it, comfort & ride etc? Have you got spacers on yours?

 

Yeah really pleased thanks, its like OEM+

Not noticed any difference in comfort, no rubbing at all either, and of course aesthetics are very much improved over the ridiculous factory arch gap

Not fitted any spacers yet no, perhaps later this summer

Thanks again for doing the research into the part numbers

 

Thankyou for all he great information in this thread especially AJM. Appreciate this.

I ordered E10-20-047-02-22 Kit for the 128ti from autodoc for £184.00 with free shipping

 

Hi AJM,

Thanks to your post I was able to confirm the Eibach lowering springs a certain well known UK company is selling with the less drastic drop.

Mine are being fitted by someone more local to me (and who always looked after my previous VAG cars).

Just wanted to see how you're getting on with them after 12+ months. Still happy with the ride etc? Any issues?

 

Apologies, rarely get on here these days. I sold my car & moved into 4 series. My mate still has his & no issues at all with them.

 

i just fitted the Eibach - Autodoc supplied E1-20-047-02-22 Kit which is same as E10-57-005-02-22 containing F11-20-030-03-VA & F11-57-005-01-RA to my 128ti. I paid £184

They're very OEM esq, no harder than standard and only a small bit height difference, not huge drop.

Before: I measured 37.5cm from centre of wheel to arch before back and front
After: 35.5cm rear and 35.8cm front, Which is kind of the opposite of what i was expecting.

Its fine though I have less gap which is what i wanted, maintain quality of ride and i can get on and off my drive and speed bumps fine.

 

i just fitted the Eibach - Autodoc supplied E1-20-047-02-22 Kit which is same as E10-57-005-02-22 containing F11-20-030-03-VA & F11-57-005-01-RA to my 128ti. I paid £184

They're very OEM esq, no harder than standard and only a small bit height difference, not huge drop.

Before: I measured 37.5cm from centre of wheel to arch before back and front
After: 35.5cm rear and 35.8cm front, Which is kind of the opposite of what i was expecting.

Its fine though I have less gap which is what i wanted, maintain quality of ride and i can get on and off my drive and speed bumps fine.

How soon after did you measure though? In my experience with lowering springs, they take a few miles/days to truly settle

 

Anyone had springs fitted along with carbon arch guards? Would like to know if these catch when springs are fitted.

cheers

 

Thought I'd share my experiences with Eibach lowering springs in the hope it helps some of you out there considering this modification. Let me start by saying in my opinion the M135i is lacking that little bit of X factor as standard. I initially had the car on the 19" 557m wheels & felt it just lacked that sporty look I was looking for. Initially I decided to change the wheels & add some M performance bits but I still felt the car didn't look right. So eventually went for the Eibach lowering springs.

First of all… in my opinion had I done this modification first, then I wouldn't have bothered with the wheels & the M performance parts. It is the lowering springs what really take the look of this car & the driving experience to the next level.

There are two kits that are in general use on the M135 as below:-

The official M135i Eibach catalogue kit, part no E10-20-047-03-22. This kit contains front springs F11-20-030-03-VA & rear springs F11-57-005-01-RA. This kit gives the official drops of 30mm front & 15mm rear. In reality this kit dropped the front closer to 4cm & the rear by the stated 1.5cm & having spoken to a few other users this seems consistent. I fitted this kit with 10mm spacers all round. Looks wise this kit gives the car a much more aggressive nose down stance with the front arch gap looking slightly tighter than the rear. In terms of the driving experience this kit was superb, the car feels incredibly planted, soaks up bumps well & doesn't get unsettled across bumpy road surfaces. The turn in feels sharper with very little body roll. No issues with speed humps etc. However, with the M performance splitter I caught the underside of the splitter on a few occasions. With a standard car you won't have any issues but with a non standard front splitter there will be occasions you will need to be careful. Due to this I decided to switch kits.

I'm now using Eibach kit E10-57-005-02-22 which is officially listed for the same platform Mini JCW. This kit contains front spring F11-20-034-01-FA & the same rear spring F11-57-005-01-RA. I've found this kit has dropped the front by 2.5cm & still sitting on the same rear springs the 1.5cm rear. Still fitted with the same 10mm spacers. Looks wise this kit is very much more an oem stance, just slightly lower. The arch gaps are consistent front & rear & the car looks a little more level as opposed to the more nose down look the official kit gives. Handling wise, with the extra spring height I can already feel they are slightly softer & there's a hint of body roll back. These however just give that extra ground clearance at the front which will hopefully mean I won't cause any damage to my M performance front splitter.

I've attached a couple of pics, the two side profiles comp

Hello.
Your post about Eibach springs was very helpful to me. I have the same problem but the 120d xdrive model. According to the Eibach catalog, the same model E10-20-047-03-22 fits mine. Unfortunately, as is the case with Eibach, the given reduction values differ in reality. especially since I usually have suspension, not the M package. I want to replace the shock absorbers with other ones, but unfortunately my choice is very limited. Bilstein B6 or original BMW MPack. Immediately during the replacement, I wanted to replace the front springs, but when checking the technical data I saw that the F11-20-030-03-VA spring is designed for a permissible load on the front axle of 1120 kg and is 235 cm long. However, the F11-20-034-01-FA spring has a specified axle load of 1085 kg and has a dimension of 259 kg. therefore the decline in her case is smaller in your case. Only that in my car the plate shows the load on the front axle is 1120 kg. Now I have a question - what is the pressure on the front axle from the plate? Everyone describes the 135m xdrive petrol version. Thanks in advance for any info.

 

Make the car look great but made of cheese,I've had Eibach springs on 3 different cars,2 E46 M3,s and an E46 330 and the rears always break.
I also have them on my current F56 Mini and I.m scared to even look as I,very a feeling they,ll be snapped too.
They have a decent warranty but only if bought from a UK supplier

 

BMW F40 M135i xDrive Eibach Springs (-30F/-25R)

 

View attachment 24418

BMW F40 M135i xDrive Eibach Springs (-30F/-25R)

Looks great. Would these springs be suitable for the F44 Gran coupe m235i. Was thinking of the mini kit with the lesser drop.
E10- 20-047-02-22 or E10-57-005-02-22
Thanks in advance.

 

Purchased a set of the springs as discussed in this thread only to have the car order cancelled due to no production slots.
Kit reference.
E10-57-005-02-22

on eBay or PM me if anyone is interested
Thanks
Andy

 

Thanks mate. I appreciate your effort to put up this thread. It helps me a lot which way I have to head, now.

 

hello and thanks for brilliant info🙏i have the same wheels and that drop looks perfect👍when the tyres are done i will go upto 235/40/18” anyway so another 5 mm less gap and 5mm clearance😂

 

Hello
I have same 18inch 554m alloys fitted to my 135i with mmr 20mm rear 25mm front lowering springs .
I try attach photo before and after shots

 

Hello and welcome, Way!

 

👍👍

 

Hello and welcome, Askonz!