E8x Camber plate project
Update: Camber Plate development for the E8x & E9X models is now complete as following thread, but for those wanting to know the outcome without reading it all then below is camber details of various options, if you want a set get in touch.
Stage1 plates on their own give -0.7 to-1deg, or coupled with M3 LCA this goes to -1.5 to -1.9deg.
Stage2 plates on their own give -1.5 to -1.8deg, or coupled with M3 LCA this goes to -2.5 to -3deg.
Above numbers are based on stock or near to stock ride heights and 18" wheels/tyre size , lots of things can alter the actual camber with ride height & wheel & tyre size being most influential.
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Ok to follow on from my Ohlins thread I thought I would start a new one about my camber plate project and here it is
So today Ive been busy with some machining on the laser cut plates I had done for my camber plate project, for those not in the know these fit on top of front suspension top mounts to shift them across and give more negative camber, these are just my prototype ones and I think ive been a bit conservative with the offset compared to others ive seen but still im hoping they should give approx -1.5degrees along with M3 LCA I have, plan is to get -2degrees but will need a revision to plate I think, but will see once I get them fitted.
Quick pic below of progress so far, just need a couple more of the capitive bolts out of my topmounts as only had 4 in my spares and they can go on, also ignore the nasty paint job as I just gave them a dusting to prevent rusting and have been handling them before paint was dry!...will test fit as they are and see what camber they give and go from there, might start making them to sell but we will see.
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Cheers
Ian
Stage1 plates on their own give -0.7 to-1deg, or coupled with M3 LCA this goes to -1.5 to -1.9deg.
Stage2 plates on their own give -1.5 to -1.8deg, or coupled with M3 LCA this goes to -2.5 to -3deg.
Above numbers are based on stock or near to stock ride heights and 18" wheels/tyre size , lots of things can alter the actual camber with ride height & wheel & tyre size being most influential.
--------------------------------------------------------------------------------
Ok to follow on from my Ohlins thread I thought I would start a new one about my camber plate project and here it is
So today Ive been busy with some machining on the laser cut plates I had done for my camber plate project, for those not in the know these fit on top of front suspension top mounts to shift them across and give more negative camber, these are just my prototype ones and I think ive been a bit conservative with the offset compared to others ive seen but still im hoping they should give approx -1.5degrees along with M3 LCA I have, plan is to get -2degrees but will need a revision to plate I think, but will see once I get them fitted.
Quick pic below of progress so far, just need a couple more of the capitive bolts out of my topmounts as only had 4 in my spares and they can go on, also ignore the nasty paint job as I just gave them a dusting to prevent rusting and have been handling them before paint was dry!...will test fit as they are and see what camber they give and go from there, might start making them to sell but we will see.
Cheers
Ian
1 - 20 of 317 Posts
Looking good mate 
Well interested matey!
Great work
Great work
Yeah I'm interested too!
Im not sure yet as need to look at the costs etc once I finalise the design, sure it will be a lot cheaper than getting Dinan ones over from statesjonwilli said:
Never got chance to test fit this weekend due to family stuff but will get them repainted today and test fit tonight
Ian
Why not ? those in your link are not the same thing they are fully adjustable solid mounted complete top mount replacements and not best quality from what i can see, pretty colours thoughSonic1506 said:
, Dinan plates are probably nearest to what ive done and the cost for me to make these is minimal while fitting in around other jobs, also if it works out it could be a product i might be able to sell through work to help others out with a cost effective solution for those wanting a set amount of camber and not fully adjustable, which isnt really needed for many.I wouldnt want to run solid mounts on a road car again either, im getting old and like things quiet and smooth which the OEM rubber mounted version is always going to best for
Ian
I was curious as to why you made it when something can be had off the shelf, that's all, rather than an attack on you.THETYRANT said:Why not ? those in your link are not the same thing they are fully adjustable solid mounted complete top mount replacements and not best quality from what i can see, pretty colours though
I wouldnt want to run solid mounts on a road car again either, im getting old and like things quiet and smooth which the OEM rubber mounted version is always going to best for
Ian
I know what is available ive looked at all options out there over the years , also have you seen the prices! ? 
Nearest thing ive seen on the shelf to do what i require (as below) are the Dinan plates, but i felt price was out of proportion for what you get although i think i know why due the hardware involved as ive not yet been able to find an off the shelf supplier for the splined/captive studs that fix them to car, ive used my own which you need to remove from stock mounts anyhow to fit this type of plate so no big issue, but the Dinan plates come with them ready fitted which is neat touch but i suspect jacks up price, or at least maybe did at start as im sure i read they were buying stock mounts to get the studs when they first started making their plates.
Using my contacts and machines at work i felt i could make my own easily enough and for very little outlay if i fitted it around other jobs, its a nice project and i can make them exactly how i want them and engineer them to do exactly what i want as well, my requirements are to obtain from -1.5 to -2 degress of negative camber (a i feel that is more than enough for road car) but also i wanted OEM quality NVH and durabilty so by using the OEM top mounts/bearings i know reliability and refinement will be as good as you can get
Ian
, also have you seen the prices! ? Nearest thing ive seen on the shelf to do what i require (as below) are the Dinan plates, but i felt price was out of proportion for what you get although i think i know why due the hardware involved as ive not yet been able to find an off the shelf supplier for the splined/captive studs that fix them to car, ive used my own which you need to remove from stock mounts anyhow to fit this type of plate so no big issue, but the Dinan plates come with them ready fitted which is neat touch but i suspect jacks up price, or at least maybe did at start as im sure i read they were buying stock mounts to get the studs when they first started making their plates.
Using my contacts and machines at work i felt i could make my own easily enough and for very little outlay if i fitted it around other jobs, its a nice project and i can make them exactly how i want them and engineer them to do exactly what i want as well, my requirements are to obtain from -1.5 to -2 degress of negative camber (a i feel that is more than enough for road car) but also i wanted OEM quality NVH and durabilty so by using the OEM top mounts/bearings i know reliability and refinement will be as good as you can get
Ian
2
OK had a busy day today, cleaned up the plates and gave them a couple of coats of satin black to look more stealthy
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Tonight got them fitted which was easy enough and no nasty suprises, just undo 3 nuts on topmounts so on last few threads, jack up car and take wheel off then disconnect arb drop link to allow wheel and damper to drop down, jacked up the suspension into normal position so I could tap out the studs then its just a case of lowering strut down enough to get camber plates in and tightened up before reassembly.
Quick pic looking up in arch, I used long stainless bolts as may yet add another plate to use as spacer to tweak ride heights.
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Dropped it al back down and did a camber check as below, for reference im running a front ride height of ~340mm from wheel centre to arch and have M3 LCA's as well as camber pin already removed.
Before camber plates with top mount full pushed in I had...
NSF @ -1.2degree
OSF @ -0.9degree
After Camber plates again with topmounts pushed right in I had...
NSF @ -1.9degree
OSF @ -1.5degree
When for a quick drive to make sure all was settled and checked again but was same, so I jacked car back up and adjusted the NSF top mount to approx centre position in stock turret slots, this has given me -1.5 on both sides which will do for now
I need to tweak the tracking as extra camber as expected has given me a touch of toe out and I like to run zero so will sort that in next day or so then get out for some testing, although wont be until I get on track next month before I can see how the tyre shoulders wear
All in all happy with results and after a quick measure up I can see where I can gain more camber with few tweaks to my design, so next time im ordering some laser cutting will do a revised plate for more track focused setting of -2 maybe upto -2.5degree or above!
Cheers
Ian
Tonight got them fitted which was easy enough and no nasty suprises, just undo 3 nuts on topmounts so on last few threads, jack up car and take wheel off then disconnect arb drop link to allow wheel and damper to drop down, jacked up the suspension into normal position so I could tap out the studs then its just a case of lowering strut down enough to get camber plates in and tightened up before reassembly.
Quick pic looking up in arch, I used long stainless bolts as may yet add another plate to use as spacer to tweak ride heights.
Dropped it al back down and did a camber check as below, for reference im running a front ride height of ~340mm from wheel centre to arch and have M3 LCA's as well as camber pin already removed.
Before camber plates with top mount full pushed in I had...
NSF @ -1.2degree
OSF @ -0.9degree
After Camber plates again with topmounts pushed right in I had...
NSF @ -1.9degree
OSF @ -1.5degree
When for a quick drive to make sure all was settled and checked again but was same, so I jacked car back up and adjusted the NSF top mount to approx centre position in stock turret slots, this has given me -1.5 on both sides which will do for now
I need to tweak the tracking as extra camber as expected has given me a touch of toe out and I like to run zero so will sort that in next day or so then get out for some testing, although wont be until I get on track next month before I can see how the tyre shoulders wear
All in all happy with results and after a quick measure up I can see where I can gain more camber with few tweaks to my design, so next time im ordering some laser cutting will do a revised plate for more track focused setting of -2 maybe upto -2.5degree or above!
Cheers
Ian
Nice one Ian! I'm very much wanting a set for mine already
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Haha quality, let me have a look at the costings etc and will fire you a PM
Ian
Ian
1 - 20 of 317 Posts
