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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Hi all. Brake judder issue is still driving me mad. I've done the 'lots of big stops' attempt to clean deposits off the discs - no joy. I replaced the front pads a little while ago - still got judder. Last week, new rear discs and pads - no difference. That seems to leave me with front discs, but before i drop £300 on a set of new OE discs, is it worth getting them skimmed? Anyone know where I can get a skim done in the west London - west Berks M4 corridor area? I'm near Reading. The guy in Basingstoke can only do a 300mm disc.

Thanks
 

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What pads do you have at the front?
 

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Discussion Starter · #3 ·
Got some ATE pads from Autodoc, F/G rated as I recall. I thought the old ones might have been cheapo but they turned out to be F/F rated Jurids (OE) when I took them off.
 

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Well those are pretty good so its not pad failure then. EE pads can melt to the disk causing hot spots but GFs wont. Is there much of a lip on your disks? That could be removed with a file at a push. Otherwise they as you suggest a skim might be the only option.
 

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Are we talking about front discs new from factory? Have they been replaced before? How many miles have the discs done? Any track days? Have you checked if they spin freely
 

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Has it just started or has it always been there? You could get a runout gauge and see where the high spots are on the disk and hub then reposition the disc to suit (for example hub high spot to disk low spot to minimise the total runout)
 

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Discussion Starter · #9 ·
Are we talking about front discs new from factory? Have they been replaced before? How many miles have the discs done? Any track days? Have you checked if they spin freely
Yeah, original discs, done 20k miles, no track days yet. Hardly any lip on them, so in theory have some good life left. Local indie garage checked them, didn't report and problems.
 

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Discussion Starter · #11 ·
Has it just started or has it always been there? You could get a runout gauge and see where the high spots are on the disk and hub then reposition the disc to suit (for example hub high spot to disk low spot to minimise the total runout)
Interesting idea. Presumably a skim would eliminate that requirement though? i.e. bring disc and hub into alignment?
 

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As above you can order a cheap DTI with magnetic base and stick it to the hub or shock and check the hub face for runout and check the disk for runout when it’s bolted to the hub
Have you taken the disk off and made sure there is no corrosion or dirt on the back of the disk hat and hub face ?
 

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Discussion Starter · #13 ·
As above you can order a cheap DTI with magnetic base and stick it to the hub or shock and check the hub face for runout and check the disk for runout when it’s bolted to the hub
Have you taken the disk off and made sure there is no corrosion or dirt on the back of the disk hat and hub face ?
Is a DTI the sort of thing a standard brake check garage would have? I've not checked the disc/hub at all, but my local garage seemed to think there was nothing obvious wrong.

Useful advice, thanks.
 

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DTI = dial test indicator or "clock" can be use on the hub to disc mating face.
if you hub is out of spec you can bed your bottom dollar your disc will be.
Any decent garage should had a DTI.
 

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Unless the disk has been off at some point though, how would debris get between hub and disk after only 20k miles? Maybe the disk has been off?
 

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Unless the disk has been off at some point though, how would debris get between hub and disk after only 20k miles? Maybe the disk has been off?
Moisture will get in that will lead to rust forming. when ever I do discs on a car I always clean the hub and inner disc face prior to mounting it.
 
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I had this issue, new discs & pads on the front - still juddering. Turns out I had a sticking calliper on the rear, I thought I could feel it through the steering wheel so initially dismissed the rear.

New calliper - issue gone away!


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