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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Hi all,

I have been trying to change my Air Filter on my 118d (pre-facelift) today but couldn't remove the housing box that houses the air filter. I was able to remove all covers but it seemed that it is somehow attached or bolted on deep into the scuttle panel. The outer bolts on this box were removed but it still didn't budge.

Does anyone know if I have to remove my scuttle panel - if so how is this done as I couldn't find any bolts or way to undo it.

I have tried to have a look at the diagrams on RealOEM but they are not that detailed to see how this attaches.

Any help appreciated.
 

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hi, you need to remove the microfilter with 6 8mm screws and then remove the housing/panel which is held by 2 8mm screws. To get to these remove the two covers on either end, one of them covers the brake fluid. Disconnect your sensors and pull the housing away towards you. When refitting look for the centre mark on the housing and also the seal on the scuttel panel as it makes it easier to refit. Once that's removed remove the engine cover held with 5mm Allen bolts then remove the cover at the rear of the engine this is held by two 5mm Allen bolts.
Once this is removed you need to remove the air duct which goes from the filter housing which is held by a 5mm Allen bolt
Now your ready to remove the housing which is held by 5 5mm alllen bolts. When looking at the filter housing 2 bolts are on the left hand side the top left bolt can be felt with your hand but can't be seen and the other 3 bolts are along the right hand side of the filter housing.
You can then remove the filter housing but make sure you note how it's fitted as it's a ***** to refit correctly then check again how it's fitted then remove. Good luck hope you make sence of these.
 

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Discussion Starter · #3 ·
mike123d said:
hi, you need to remove the microfilter with 6 8mm screws and then remove the housing/panel which is held by 2 8mm screws. To get to these remove the two covers on either end, one of them covers the brake fluid. Disconnect your sensors and pull the housing away towards you. When refitting look for the centre mark on the housing and also the seal on the scuttel panel as it makes it easier to refit. Once that's removed remove the engine cover held with 5mm Allen bolts then remove the cover at the rear of the engine this is held by two 5mm Allen bolts.
Once this is removed you need to remove the air duct which goes from the filter housing which is held by a 5mm Allen bolt
Now your ready to remove the housing which is held by 5 5mm alllen bolts. When looking at the filter housing 2 bolts are on the left hand side the top left bolt can be felt with your hand but can't be seen and the other 3 bolts are along the right hand side of the filter housing.
You can then remove the filter housing but make sure you note how it's fitted as it's a biatch to refit correctly then check again how it's fitted then remove. Good luck hope you make sence of these.
Hi Mike123d,

Thanks for the detailed how to - it was absolutely spot on! :D You're right about the filter housing being a right biatch to fit but managed it in the end :D Only thing was the filter didn't seem to fit right down into the MAF, there was a slight gap. Is this normal? (it was a genuine filter)
 

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If the filter housing cover went back on then you probably got the filter correctly fitted as they dont go on easy, as you've found out and they dont go on at all if the filter isnt fitted correctly.
 

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Why do some car manufacturers make changing the air filter so hard - my Alfa 156 only had 3 bolts to change, but were surrounded by plastic that filled with water causing the bolts to rust and brake off requiring a new airbox and even if they didn't break, it was still a twenty minute job moving everything out of the way.
On my old Ford Escort I could change the air filter in 30 seconds as there was only one wingnut to remove and the whole unit sat right on top of the engine and so was easy to get to.
I can't even see where the airbox would be on my 120D
 

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BigG said:
Hi

Looking at the title on this post, would I be wrong to assume that these instructions are not the same for a 120d FL ?

Graeme
The FL 118d/120d have a more traditional fitting with the airbox being at the front of the engine bay and far far easier access!!! Also the filter is a standard square filter not a long cone filter in the case of the pre FL car's.
 

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Thanks JezyG.

I've had a quick look under the bonnet and it seems pretty simple, 3 retaining clips around the filter cover.

Does it just pop off once these are removed, or is there more too it ?

Thanks
Graeme
 

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BigG said:
Thanks JezyG.

I've had a quick look under the bonnet and it seems pretty simple, 3 retaining clips around the filter cover.

Does it just pop off once these are removed, or is there more too it ?

Thanks
Graeme
It should just pop off never tried on mine but you do need to remove the intake pipe from the front grill area to make acces easier. Have a look on realoem.com that may help :?
 

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Unfortunately realoem.com wasn't able to offer much help.

But I had a crack at it anyway, I disconnected the sensor and popped the left hand clip (moulded not metal) off. With a bit of jiggling around the lid came almost all the way off, enough for me to take out the old filter, get the vaccum in there to remove all the dirt and rubbish, and pop the new filter in place.

I have to say, it was definately easier than the instructions for the pre FL show.
 

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BigG said:
Unfortunately realoem.com wasn't able to offer much help.

But I had a crack at it anyway, I disconnected the sensor and popped the left hand clip (moulded not metal) off. With a bit of jiggling around the lid came almost all the way off, enough for me to take out the old filter, get the vaccum in there to remove all the dirt and rubbish, and pop the new filter in place.

I have to say, it was definately easier than the instructions for the pre FL show.
Reasloem can be hitand miss but at least you got it sorted I was going to fit a K&N filter but they only released the FL one about a month before I sold it so never got round to opening the airbox.
 

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Anybody got a timescale for this job, bearing in mind I'm no mechanic, it sounds horrific for what should be a 'simple' job.

Jeez O.....
 

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If it's your first time, I'd suggest the best part of 2 hours, including a tea/swearing break.
 

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It's not that bad, just time consuming. I had two problems, the main being getting the cover on the air filter to sit right, still not sure what happened but it suddenly fell in place. The other problem I had was the strut brace, you only need to loosen the bolt under the wipers I undid mine and had a job getting it back in place, then when I tried to fit the plastic disc that covers the bolt it pinged off never to be seen again.
Worth doing though saves you a bit of money. I'm going to have a go at the fuel filter next, when I can find it!! Great idea covering the underside of the car with shields, but not helpful if you need in there and you have to do it in the street with a jack or ramps.
 

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Did the air filter/breather change . Not an easy job. Struts, covers out etc etc :shock: Used an aftermarket filter and have come out the other end with a noisier engine, and a rattle on light acceleration!

I am sure the filter cover is back on properly - but then again maybe not after 20 mins of adjustments.

Would this not being completely on properly explain the extra noise? How noisy is it in the air filter compartment? Is there a chance it is this not being completely shut that has caused the noisier engine or is it just the engine getting used to its new filter after 50,000 miles?

Cheers

2006 120d SE 101k

 

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Hard to say without hearing it, but I can't see how putting a new filter in would make that much difference to the noise level of the engine. So maybe something isn't quite right. When you got the cover on the filter, did all the screws tighten up without much effort? The reason I ask is, when I did mine I thought everything was in place and the screws were going in but were tight so I undid them and fiddled around and discovered that the cover wasn't seated quite right. When it was the screws were easily tightened up. This could be the rattle noise you have also, as one of the screws may be loose now and rattling in its hole.
 

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When i had my air filter changed i posted a topic about the extra noise i got-it was a sort of whoosh noise between gear change, when i first picked the car up from the garage the noise was really bad-turns out they hadnt re fitted the housing correctly, i returned maybe 3 or 4 times with noise and now its not so bad i can only hear it changing between 1st and 2nd gear!
When i can get some time off work i plan to strip it down myself and take a look, although the garage assures me the noise is normal induction noise im not so sure!
 

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This topic was discussed a while back and I seem to remember there was another job that could be done at the same time, was it an oil separator?
 
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