Baby BMW Forum banner

Car vibrates at 50mph+

1687 Views 18 Replies 6 Participants Last post by  gabrielwong1991
Hi there, today my car starts to act weirdly when I am at motorway. When I reach 50mph the car starts to shake violently. After I came off the motorway and stops at traffic light I smell something burning, So I pulled over and notice the front left wheel was so hot and definitely the smell coming from that wheel. I did came home safely after driving at 30mph...

I suspect the brake caliper seized but I also thinks it would caused by the wheel being not balance which sends the vibration to the rotor, making the rotor in contact with the brake pads? However I cannot find any info in this on google so I am not sure if the play on the rotor to the brake pads will be that much...

So what I am asking is anyone here have experience on this? Would it be caused by wheel being not balanced or straightly a seized caliper?

Many thanks
1 - 19 of 19 Posts
I should also add when I left my hands off the wheel on straight road at 30mph, the car seems to track fine...
If that wheel is hotter than the other side, then its simply a seized caliper.

Its possible (but unlikely) the heat and vibration could be from a failed bearing.

Any imbalance would not result in the rotor contacting the brake pads, the whole unit moves as one, as the rotor, caliper, etc are all bolted together (unless the bolts are loose, in which case you've got a bigger problem, again, very unlikely).

You may find the heat has warped the disc, which could also account for some vibration.
We've also had bent hubs in the past, which feels like a buckled wheel. Vibrations and hot calliper.

I'd check everything for run-out accurately with a Dial Test Indicator, whilst you've got it up in the air checking for brake drag.
If it ain't brake/wheel related, I would suspect the universal (front or rear) shot.
Universals cause a lot of vibration when they go or are on their way out!
Regardz.
I've just had exactly the same problem and from your description it definitely sounds like a stuck caliper, if when you hit the biting point it doesn't creep forward at full pace, the clutch feels like the biting point is higher and the cars seems to be slower as well. All of those are symptoms just get it in to a garage ASAP as if you're discs are warped, pads are wearing thin and you leave it too long worst case scenario may cause a fire
Bad bearing is easy to check, is it just jack up the car and give the wheel a shake? I didnt hear any noise coming out the car when turning..

If i going to change the caliper, do i need to change the brake pads and the disc too? I mean both sides?
gabrielwong1991 said:
Bad bearing is easy to check, is it just jack up the car and give the wheel a shake? I didnt hear any noise coming out the car when turning..

If i going to change the caliper, do i need to change the brake pads and the disc too? I mean both sides?
Bearing is easy to check it's just a matter of jacking it up and checking for movement in the wheels, however a bearing wouldn't cause excess heat after driving as you describe this can only really be caused by a stuck caliper.

Checking the caliper again is easy try and spin the wheel whilst jacked up and you'll tell straight away as it won't be moving easily and will stick, you may able to free the caliper yourself without having to buy another one depending on how badly damaged it is and the same with your discs and pads. If you've caught it really early then you may not need to change but I always recommend to change both pads and discs after a stuck caliper, as the disc will more than likely warped due to the extra heat.

Hope that helps
Just an update, found out to be a seized caliper.

Many thanks guys!
I have been looking at ebay and most of them says a pre facelift 120d caliper will fits my facelifted 120d. However looking at the part number they are different. Some even says E90, E87 blah blah blah will fit but RealOEM suggested differently.

I need this urgently so if any of you have knowledge on this please chip in! Otherwise would ask the seller but seems most of them are off.. Many thanks!!!

" onclick="window.open(this.href);return false;

" onclick="window.open(this.href);return false;

" onclick="window.open(this.href);return false;
I think callipers are quite common to seize in the bmws
Sorry I can't help with caliper part numbers. Are series 3 the same as callipers as series 1, for approx same year of manf.
Question ....
If we had the car on top of a slight incline and put it in neutral will it roll down the hill, or would the seized caliber prevent it.
Do you think, in retrospect, that this would be a quick test for a seized or partially seized caliper, with brake at the ready!
RegardZ
GarnZ said:
Sorry I can't help with caliper part numbers. Are series 3 the same as callipers as series 1, for approx same year of manf.
Question ....
If we had the car on top of a slight incline and put it in neutral will it roll down the hill, or would the seized caliber prevent it.
Do you think, in retrospect, that this would be a quick test for a seized or partially seized caliper, with brake at the ready!
RegardZ
I'm sure if you've ever pushed a car far, you'll know they do have some inertia and some natural rolling resistance. What exact gradient were you proposing? How smooth a surface? What tyre pressures?

Seems like quite a few variables to get an accurate result, and you still might not know which calliper was faulty?
Appreciate my test would be only an indication, I was thinking the test slope would be similar to a test given for a hand-brake.
Hence, the slope wouldn't have to be much. I think you would pick up a braking action from a seized caliper..... Now, for which caliper, it may require jacking and spinning the wheel. Here is where I would test for heat and burn my fingers.
RegardZ.
The best and easiest way is to check the movement of the wheel and heat from the disc, but you will also get resistance such as your clutch bite point feeling higher and a restrictive feel under full throttle if the problem is further along
Mine doesn't go to the extent that it stops the car from rolling down the hill. But one indication is when you drives 3~4 miles and hit 50mph, the car laterally shakes. When you let the car roll to a stop you can feel kind of like "the wheel is not round" - Something dragging and some burning smell
2
Also a good indication of sticky caliper is

A normal one:


A sticky caliper scrub on the disc one particular area


Sent from my ASUS_Z00AD using Tapatalk
See less See more
Good one Gabby...
What did the brake pad look like.. badly worn?
RegardZ.
GarnZ - When I took it out it isnt too bad it. Still have around 1.2cm thickness on both sides. Obviously some red marks on the pad but I dont worry much. I just realised I have been driving this stuck caliper for the last 1 month around town and nothing major really lol
1 - 19 of 19 Posts
This is an older thread, you may not receive a response, and could be reviving an old thread. Please consider creating a new thread.
Top