[NL-Mike]

For anyone using acf 50, this might be interesting to watch, looks like it gets blown out of the water by the XCP.

 

[NL-Mike]

Not sure if the video works on the forum when embedding so here's the link:

https://youtu.be/R5LSxpoqcWo

 

[Ian]

thats some good info there, think im going to buy some of the xcp to go over the suspension with

 

[swanny71]

For anyone using acf 50, this might be interesting to watch, looks like it gets blown out of the water by the XCP.

Was just about to post this.
I never really got on with ACF 50, always seemed to me to attract the muck/salt and hold it against the metal. Changed to XCP last winter and prefer it.
Top tip is to get it warm (bucket of hot water) before using, makes a massive difference to ease of application.

 

[Ian]

where have you been spraying it?

did you go for the 500ml trigger spray bottle or the aerosol can?

 

[NL-Mike]

I haven't bought the XCP yet, but accidentally stumbled on this review when looking to protect a set of Bilsteins.
Not sure what's better, I expect with the aerosol it might be easier to apply an even coat.

 

[Ian]

I have been trying to contact both bmw customer service and my local bmw centre about the warranty with having a rust treatment applied, both reply, but non of them have given me a answer, just said they will find out.

I have found a local place to me who can offer this treatment for £495.

I would go with a clear finish under the car to give it a more of a OE finish.

EXTREME:
'THE DADDY OF TREATMENTS' a full clean down of the whole undercarriage of the vehicle. Thoroughly cleaned and all rust eleminated by applying ML rust inhibitior to the full undercarriage. Once dry we seal the full undercarriage including chassis, floor sections, suspension arms, brake disc covers, steering bars, front/rear trailing arms, wheel carrier supports, tank/tank guard, boot floor, front/rear bumper internal supports, arch externals with black undercarriage top coat. Clear coat cavity wax is then injected into the internal sections of the chassi to treat the inside out - this clear coat is also applied to the door inners and body seems before a clean off and seal to body work.

- Aimed at all vehicles both new and old which are looking for a one off solution to protect there vehicle both internally and externally including the door inners and body work seams -

thanks
ian

 

[Nyxeris]

Something is very wrong with that description.

ML isn't just an inhibitor, it's a cavity wax. It's not UV stable nor does it ever dry - it'll be like smearing thick brown grease (i.e. Waxoyl) all over the underside of your car, but just like Waxoyl it will fill up with sh*t off the road and wear away fairly quickly because it isn't impact resistant. Dinitrol products are much more effective than Waxoyl but not when they're used incorrectly.

I have absolutely no idea what they've got that will apply on top of that either. They mention two seperate sealants and a topcoat, but if they're coating the entire undercarriage in ML (which they claim) that can't be right - ML is bitumen based, nothing will stick to it!

Then their actual cavity wax is clear, which makes no sense at all because the cavities are the one place where brown wax could be without you noticing it. Brown wax is always more effective, to make wax clear the manufacturers have to remove half the active ingredients.

Then they're applying clear coat to the factory seam sealer - which is a properly thick, rubberized coating that can shrug off hammer blows. It'd be like putting a tshirt over body armour and expecting that to make a difference.

Just on the warranty point, no idea what BMW would say but in the Landy world (where Waxoyl/Dinitrol etc. treatment is very common) the usual approach is that it's fine for warranty unless the treatment contributed to your issues, but they can refuse to work on a treated car if the treatment is going to make their life harder. Some of them will charge you full whack labour to clean it off (obviously it's then the work experience boy who does it), others will just tell you they can't do the job (because it's horrible stuff to remove and sticks to everything it touches, tools, clothes, workshop floors - hence the work experience boy).

£495 is quite expensive for a hatchback too. You'd pay similar money for a Defender, which is a ladder chassis with about twice as much surface area to cover.

All in all, in case you couldn't tell, I'm not convinced lol. If there are any Landy/Jap specialists near you that use Dinitrol products I'd see what they can do instead - might be a nice change for them from Defenders and MX5s. Avoid Waxoyl, it's entirely obsolete and only exists because a handful of people who learned their trade in the 70s really don't like change.

 

[Ian]

you are correct, it doesnt read well.

From talking to them, I would be looking to have the dinitrol corroheat 4010 under the car, and ml for the internals.

dinitrol 4941 would be better for under the car, but I am after a clear finish.

this is the company

https://www.cskautomotive.co.uk/the-rust-prevention-centre/

thanks
ian

 

[chester]

I've used Dinitrol underbody wax for years along with their cavity wax and can't fault it

https://www.frost.co.uk/dinitrol-underbody-wax-500ml/

. If you have access to a ramp there's no reason not to do it yourself so long as the underside is thorougly clean, its just a messy job. I haven't done the 140 as I store it over winter.

Regarding BMWs warranty I would expect any claim made for paintwork issues, corrosion etc would be rejected as they would just blame drain holes etc were blocked, perfect excuse.

When I did underside of my Z3 BMW kept failing its MOT thinking the shocks were leaking and noteing excessive oil and wax on the brake lines hindering inspection.

 

[Nyxeris]

you are correct, it doesnt read well.

From talking to them, I would be looking to have the dinitrol corroheat 4010 under the car, and ml for the internals.

I've actually seen CSK mentioned positively on Landy forums so I guess this is one of those situations where their website isn't working in their favour!

I agree with chester that DIY is a good option if you fancy it, all I would say is that if you're DIYing it Bilt Hamber's products are cheaper and seem to be regarded as more effective than Dinitrol nowadays. I've never used a BH product I didn't like, and the parts on the 110 that have been treated with their Dynax UB (which is a self healing corrosion inhibiting wax that dries hard rather than stays sticky) look as good as the day they were applied. I use it on the 130i too - any bolts I touch on the underside get a spray. Fantastic stuff.

 

[pebbles8]

What a complete load of utter nonsense. Just drive the bloody thing

 

[JohnsM135i]

What a complete load of utter nonsense. Just drive the bloody thing

Each to their own and all that!

My car is 3 years old and you can eat your dinner from underneath!

Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

 

[Ian]

What a complete load of utter nonsense. Just drive the bloody thing

its a bit like changing the oil early, you shouldn't need to do it, but it doesn't hurt, and could benefit it later on

 

[Ian]

you are correct, it doesnt read well.

From talking to them, I would be looking to have the dinitrol corroheat 4010 under the car, and ml for the internals.

I've actually seen CSK mentioned positively on Landy forums so I guess this is one of those situations where their website isn't working in their favour!

I agree with chester that DIY is a good option if you fancy it, all I would say is that if you're DIYing it Bilt Hamber's products are cheaper and seem to be regarded as more effective than Dinitrol nowadays. I've never used a BH product I didn't like, and the parts on the 110 that have been treated with their Dynax UB (which is a self healing corrosion inhibiting wax that dries hard rather than stays sticky) look as good as the day they were applied. I use it on the 130i too - any bolts I touch on the underside get a spray. Fantastic stuff.

they do seam to get some good feedback, and there work looks good.

price wise, for there top package it is £495, and i didnt think that was to bad, and takes around 3 days from start to finish

 

[JohnsM135i]

I believe the oil service is way to long and could contribute to premature engine wear or even failure especially when combined with 1000s of stop starts- of course this is just my opinion.
Combined with modern watery oil!
I would love to know how much metal, Petrol and carbon is in 20k oil!

Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

 

[Ian]

Or another thing I could do is give the car a good going over with a product called xcp rust blocker.

East to apply and remove if needed, and comes out well on tests.

Anyone used this?

 

[OneTwenty]

Why are you so concerned about rust? :?

Don't get me wrong, I like my car, but it's just a modern day mass production car and although I'll probably have it for 10-15 years I don't really concern myself with rust now or in the future. Anything that does rust underneath will just be add on bits, sub frames, wishbones etc which can all be replaced.

If this was a classic E30 or similar I could see the point, but not sure I understand it at all on a modern hatch.

We've had our E91 for nearly 11 years and I've never worried about rust on it - it still looks fine underneath with no issues and as it's now only worth about £3k even if it was rusty I wouldn't care.

 

[Ian]

I know what you mean, I think it is some sort of ocd, as im the same with car detailing.

From cars that I have had in the past, from uk stuff to different jap imports, one of the ones I miss the most was a 500 bhp version 6 sti classic shape impreza, that I owned for around 8 years. I did nothing about rust protection about it at the time, as it was nothing I had heard of or even thought about, and in the end the car was sold for parts as the shell was rusting away. (no protection from new)

then another import i had, a nissan elgrand, I had protected soon after it was in the uk, and they looked as good as the day it arrived around 3 years later.

I know this is a much newer car, with hopefully better protection, but I think to my self for the sake of £400-£500, it would be money well spent in the long run.

 

[Ian]

Anyone used PMW in Chelmsford? as they offer the dinitrol service