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Discussion Starter · #161 ·
The little 125i ticked me over 90k recently.

I've recently replaced the dodgy coil pack which had bloody zip ties on it.

The oil cooler and filter housing gaskets don't look like they actually need changing which is a result. I think the oil I could see was from poor / messy servicing. Since cleaning it up, there isn't any more evidence of oil.

I gave it a quick wash today and cracked on with a few dull jobs.

First up I fitted a new boot light because other one went manky when the rear dampers were replaced in spring and the boot was option for ages. I also fitted a new boot switch because the old one was manky.


Still scrubs up pretty well. The in2detailing ceramic wax seems to be holding up really well.



At some point in the new year, I'm intending to do the following:

Remap to 130i power
New springs all round (probably Eibach)
New front B4 dampers
New top mounts with the camber pin removed
M3 LCA's because they've improved the front end of my car so much
Alacantara binnacle cover
Rear discs and pads

Proper interior detail with the seats removed and recoloured
Replace the rear callipers because he is binding a wee bit (I've been given a pair by a fellow member so will get them painted soon).
 

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Discussion Starter · #162 ·
As of tomorrow, we've had the 125i for 12 months.

It was chilly but the sun was out so I nicked it for sone very cold, roof down driving and took some photos of it in the same place as I did just after we'd got it.





In 12 months it's covered 8,169 miles. It's been a slow return to work after Christmas so I decided to work out what it's cost to run over those 12 months and the answer is more than I though! :hehe!

I split the costs into three categories; compulsory (insurance, VED, MOT), maintenance and mods / cosmetic stuff and as I'm a QS who loves a spreadsheet….


It got off to a slightly rocky start needing new tyres, track rods and a four wheel alignment. Those plus he garage trip for the wheel speed sensor account of a large amount of the running costs to date (£1,000 of the £1,409 costs to date). Hope maintenance costs will fall this year.

I do have a few bits planned for this year which I'll tackle myself.

On the list maintenance wise:

* change rear diff oil
* change gearbox oil
* rear discs, pads and wear sensor
* replace rear callipers (starting to bind). I've been given a pair which just need painting
* DIY interim oil change

On the mods / improvement front, I'd like to do the following:

* remap to 130i power
* M3 LCA's
* camber pin mod (free)
* Bilstein B4 front dampers; rears we're done last year and the front are original
* Eibach springs; all original and and at 90k passed their best
* mod the exhaust for a bit more noise
* alcantara binnacle
* OE mats (current drivers one moves and does my head in)

To date it's been a really good little car and one that I think looks pretty good (especially with the roof down). It's a bit smoother than the engine in my car and the gearbox feels a bit better too. Other than the lists above, the plan is to just use it and enjoy it as much as possible. We're doing the NC500 mod April and this might get used especially if the weather is nice.
 

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I done something similar recently too, the car cost me £5500 in July 2015 and in the 6.5 years and 30k miles since I've spent just shy of £5k on maintenance, upgrades and consumables which isn't bad. The £750 air con compressor replacement to mark it's 6th anniversary was a bit of a sore one though.
 

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Discussion Starter · #164 ·
It's quite eye opening when you add it all up. All of those odds and sods soon add up.

Thinking about it, there were a few items on the list above that were paid using the proceeds left over from selling the 116. The tyres, track rods, four wheel alignment, exhaust tips and some of the other early expenditure was all covered with that.

It'll be interesting to see how it compares long time with the previous F56 MINI which cost a smidge over £12k for three years of finance, insurance, VED, service and tyres and at the end we had sod all to show for it.
 

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The investment you've put in to both should pay back if you're keeping them a few years, I can't imagine there'll be much else needing doing to them apart from oil changes now and that should be cheap enough if you're doing them yourself. The good ones hold their value well too so you'd be due most of that back when you're done all going well. Your track rods look unbelievably expensive though, what happened there?

I was pleasantly surprised when I tallied it up to be honest, I was considering selling last year but it'd be a real struggle to replace it with something that'd be a similarly capable and reliable without spending a good chunk of cash. I think it's probably a bad time time to do it now anyway, I imagine the government will be hiking petrol\diesel vehicle taxes over the next few years to force us out them so I wouldn't want to be losing thousands to depreciation every time the red box makes an appearance.
 

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Discussion Starter · #166 ·
The track rods were seized absolutely solid, so it was a garage job who fitted Lemforder rods and ends…apparently they were absolute sods to get out so the labour wasn't cheap.

This one certainly isn't going anywhere soon and as you say as I get in top of bits it should level out.

It'll be interesting to see what the giver do in terms of forcing opus out of ice cars especially at the moment when everything seems crazy expensive.
 

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Christ, I better set aside a bit more cash for that, was going to get mine done when I get round to doing the front arms and assumed it'd be an hour or two labour on top of the tracking cost.

I think we've probably got a couple of years while they try to stem inflation since it's being driven by transport and energy costs but at some point I'm expecting fuel tax increases, another VED overhaul and probably a scrappage scheme of sorts thrown in to keep the motor industry sweet. It's the tactic that's worked for them before.
 

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Discussion Starter · #168 ·
I got away with not needing them on my 130 despite it being on 108k when I did the LCA's but at 82k the ones in this were absolutely solid as a rock. The Lemforder assemblies are £90 each from ECP at the mo, so £180 in parts plus two hours labour and you're at a decent bill.

My mate with a 125i got stung for a similar amount.
 

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If you like monitoring these things the aCar app does a good job of it, and will break the cost down into cost per mile or per day. Including the purchase price and insurance, mine so far has cost me £9,406.97 over 3 months 2 days, and 1,860 miles, a cost of £101.15 a day or £5.058 per mile. That should drop a lot as I get through the year and the bigger costs get spread over more days and more miles.
 

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Discussion Starter · #170 ·
Having had this for over a year and given that it's not shat itself, I decided now was the right Tim to finally get it mapped.

The 125i shares the same N52 engine as the 130i, but is only 218bhp. There are no mechanical changes instead the power is restricted via the mapping. Given it's s cab, it's not really a thrasher but compared to my 130i, it lacked the too end. It makes a lovely noise higher up the rev range but not a lot happens.

There are a few companies with good reputations that offer the service, the closet one being P Torque who a friend had used for his 125i. No on Friday I missioned it over (despite not actually being that farm it took bloody ages to get over).




The car as given a clean bill of health and made the stock power on the first dyno run. I was told that it wasn't pulling the ignition timing etc.

It supposedly made 277 once mapped, although sone have said his dyno is slightly optimistic.


It certainly feels a lot more lively than it did before but still doesn't feel quiet as quick or punchy as my car which would make sense as it weighs 1,585kg vs. 1,450kg for my car (quick google for the weights).

Next up is new Bilstein B4 dampers, Eibach springs, M3 LCA's, new top mounts with the camber pin mod. I'm going to fit sone shorter bump stops whilst I'm at it too.

I want to change diff and gearbox oil too. The former looks like a pain because if extra bracing due to it being a cab.
 

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Discussion Starter · #171 ·
Gave my other half's 125i a slightly better clean then normal….

Washed, coat of quick detailer, exhaust tips polished, leather cleaned and a first stab at siding cleaning the roof. Scrubs up ok (I think).




Hopefully the weather holds this week so I can book Friday off and fit the followingm

Eibach lowering springs
Bilstein B4 dampers with new top mounts (locating pins removed), new spring cups etc
M3 LCA's
I've bought a screen for it too, so it'll have CarPlay
 

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Discussion Starter · #172 ·
I started tackling the screen retrofit today (ran out of daylight so it'll have to be finished tomorrow).

As it is at the moment


Dash cubby emptied of crap and ready to be whipped out


Removed.


When I test fitted the screen, the opening was a bit small. It was almost a bit messy under the cubby so I'm not sure if it was a retrofitted or left the factory like that. I had to open it our slightly with a saw and a finger sander.


Which vac and another test fit and it's all good.


I plugged it in and it worked. Happy days.



I just need to work out how to route the wires to the head unit and get it all back together. I'm off work tomorrow so will sort that and get stuck into the suspension. The new damper assemblies (Bilstein B4's, Eibach springs and new top mounts etc) are all ready to go.
 
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Very clean install and good looking cab !

I was curious to see if you needed to saw the dashboard even with the factory storage box. I was looking for the same upgrade but what disturbs me with aftermarket screens is that once installed, there is no possibility to return back to the factory configuration :(

I am thinking to start something with this for an OEM look :
 

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Discussion Starter · #175 ·
Jay_59000 said:
Very clean install and good looking cab !

I was curious to see if you needed to saw the dashboard even with the factory storage box. I was looking for the same upgrade but what disturbs me with aftermarket screens is that once installed, there is no possibility to return back to the factory configuration :(

I am thinking to start something with this for an OEM look :
It can be restored to factory. The area opened out will still be hidden by the storage cubby.

It's less damaging than fitting a double din.
 

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Discussion Starter · #176 ·
pem10 said:
Your title is a bit misleading Sam.
You need to delete half's new :wink: :lol:

Doing some great work though and think of the points :thumbs:
:lol: :lol: :lol:

We're getting married in April and are heading up to Scotland to do the NC500 after and she's quite keen to use her car rather then mine so it's getting a few wee upgrades.
 

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Discussion Starter · #177 ·
Busy day on the cars suspension today, didn't get quite as far as I'd hoped because rain stopped play a couple of times. Pictures are bit sporadic because I actually wore gloves for once and because of the drizzle at times.

I tackled the rear springs first thinking they'd be the easiest but the bolts were a bit crusty so they took some real effort to get free.


Old spring out next to the new Eibach


Rear springs both in, so it was time to crack on with the front….and not king after the drizzle arrived. Managed to get the old damper assembly and LCA out without too much trouble. The impact gun was an absolute god send for freeing crusty bolts. Freeing off the LCA was much easier on this car than mine….no snapped torx bits and no need to resorting to an angle grinder! I was pleasantly surprised at how easy the damper was to remove (I'd bought a spreader tool in preparation).



New damper assembly and M3 LCA ready for fitting.


I noticed that the drivers side top mount was bent! Which explained why it was so reluctant to drop down.


New M3 LCA fitted. This was much easier than it was on my car which was an absolute battle.


New damper in and the top mounts snugged up.


Then it pissed it down, so I had to call it a day after putting the drivers side back together although they annoyingly hen tidying up I realised that I'd forgotten to fit the paper gasket on top of the top mount, so I'll sort that tomorrow.

Once the other side is done, I'll finish the screen.
 

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SamM140 said:
Then it pissed it down, so I had to call it a day after putting the drivers side back together although they annoyingly hen tidying up I realised that I'd forgotten to fit the paper gasket on top of the top mount, so I'll sort that tomorrow.
I done the exact same thing when I done mine, was absolutely raging about it at the time :lol:

That rear bolt came out easy enough for me which was a relief as I didn't have any power tools at the time but I it was an absolute :censored: to get back in.
 

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Discussion Starter · #179 ·
nivens said:
SamM140 said:
Then it pissed it down, so I had to call it a day after putting the drivers side back together although they annoyingly hen tidying up I realised that I'd forgotten to fit the paper gasket on top of the top mount, so I'll sort that tomorrow.
I done the exact same thing when I done mine, was absolutely raging about it at the time :lol:

That rear bolt came out easy enough for me which was a relief as I didn't have any power tools at the time but I it was an absolute :censored: to get back in.
The passenger side was a **** to get back in it the drivers side slipped in a treat.
 
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