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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Hi, great site and already found some helpful info already but i am having problems and need help and advise.

I bought this car 2 weeks ago and tbo the car drives just fine but after the first week we started finding faults.

1: Idrive screen ( the small pop up one ) the main menu is off set? looks like the display is set up for the 8" screen?
2: GPS was showing the wrong location, i fixed this with new GPS unit plugged in direct to the CCC, but where is the original GPS sensor located?
3: Buttons on wheel dont work at all?
4: hit a bump and now the air bag lights are on.
5: Fault code 4191. Actuator arm is clicking but is it a turbo jammed or the actuator buggered?
6: the car is an auto and only getting 30mpg, just sold a 52 plate 320 and that did over 50mpg. is this normal?
7: water in boot, near side, vent all blocked up with silicone from last owner but still 5mm of water down there?

sorry to go on but any help would be great.
 

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Discussion Starter · #2 ·
ok update for you all, may be of help for the next person.

Removed air bag and found no faults with the plug, and checked the steering wheel buttons plug, found the plug on the wheel has no pins on it so it looks like someone had swapped the wheel for one with buttons or the squib? clockcoil? is the wrong one.

Error code 4191 or P1252 Charge air pressure actuator - short circuit to ground. >>

i called in at a BMW specialist and had them look over the car, they scanned it and came up with the same code. they showed me the actuator arm on the turbo was jammed so told me the card needed a new turbo at £1300 fitted !!

so after looking on google and you tube i thought i would have had a look myself.
I removed the engine cover and air box, then uncliped the cir-clip on the actuator arm and turbo. next i moved the a rod on the turbo and it was totally free to move up and down so it was not the problem. the actuator was only held in pace with 3x 10mm bolts so that was next to come off.
Having removed the actuator and removed the 6x clips it popped open quite easy, then i tested all the silver wires and found one had a dry joint.

Ten minuets later it was back on the car, up and running an no more fault code. sorted in less than an hour.

took loads of photo and a vid so will upload asap to YTube.

now on with the other problems, will report back asap.
Cherrs
 

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Good work so far. :thumbs:

Sorry to hear you've got the wrong slip-ring, sounds like someone's done half a job there. :( The Airbag lights could be one of the big yellow plugs under the seats, well worth checking.

Those early auto's have a proper drinking problem, Eighteentee spent a lot of time and money trying to improve his urban economy without success. If it's bad on a motorway run, check your engine running temperature. Dead thermostat's are pretty common, shows up the worst in winter as you'd expect.

Leaks around the rear lights can cause the boot wells to fill up. There are a couple of plastic plugs in the bottom of the wells, I drilled a small drain hole in each to help let it drain out again! Check the 4 plugs on your chassis rails under the car (under the boot), you might find they're full of water too, which will lead to wet rear seats in the end!
 

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I'm guessing this was a private purchase? Otherwise my advice would be to take it back.

It looks like someone has retrofitted a lot items to your car with some mixed results. Check this post and it will show what factory options your car was fitted with. My guess is the idrive and steering wheel have been added later. " onclick="window.open(this.href);return false;

As for the MPG, what type of driving are you doing to get that figure? City driving, open roads, short journey/long journey?

The auto's aren't that good on fuel but your type of journey will have a massive effect.

The water in the boot is a common fault, if you search on here for 'water in PDC' you will find a lot of threads which discuss it and how to fix it.
 

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Discussion Starter · #5 ·
Thanks for the replys,

on the motorway is was around 40 mpg, we only do short trips 5/10 miles and then the odd 30+miles so yes not going to be good.

I have already seen the water issue posts and plan on sealing the tail lights as i have some 5mm foam that will work, spotted they have been in and out a few times as the fixing bolts have been glued in the lights.

Bought the car as a trade sale, cheap so i dont mind sorting a few things out.

Will keep at it again tomorrow as long as its not raining and will report back with what i can find.

thanks again.
 

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New and proper skip ring for the front required I think if you've got plugs missing (which is why the steering wheel buttons won't work imo). I also suspect your airbag light is because the person that swapped it all over has done something incorrectly.

Get a new slip ring and fit it yourself (85 or so). If the car hasn't got cruise control and a working multifunction steering wheel now is a good time to upgrade.

Id probably take it to somewhere to try and reset the airbag light after that.
 

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Discussion Starter · #7 ·
there was a new skipring fitted in June last year and in the 2 weeks i have had the car no lights. i suspect it was the wrong one fitted then.

I will check all the plugs under the seat tomorrow and i do plan on upgrading so i can have crusecontrol, on the look out now for all the parts.
as you say its easy to fit but will be a trip to the dealer to code up. Quote £40.

found most of the info on here to do the job.

cheers
 

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Discussion Starter · #8 ·
sprayed water over the back of the car today and then sat inside to watch, water was poring in round the tail light so removed the light and made a new foam gasket. Fitted it and no more water, so that's another one sorted.
 

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Which turbo do you have on yours? Garrett or Mitsubisihi?

Don't you just love bodgers sounds like you had a lot of fun tracking all these issues down! When I replaced my engine I had so many issues given I'd paid top dollar for a fully working engine, to find they'd broken the water pump when they yanked it out and dropped it off, to then find out it was missfiring when I got it running due to faulty fuel rail sensor to then finding the heater doesn't work as it's thermostat is shut wide open which combined with a brand new Radiator I fitted means poor thing only runs at 50 degrees C! Too cold to go out there and fix it will have to wait till spring and I'll just use it when weather is above 10 degrees or drive it fast enough to get the temp up lol!

Generally though if these cars have been cared for and not mucked about they're pretty good mines on 250k miles and other than engine replacement and suspension components everythings original and given it's had some serious abuse at drag strip and even quite a few track days it's still going strong and looks like a car that's done 50k miles although I do really really take care of my cars lol!
 

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Rjudgey said:
mines on 250k miles and other than engine replacement and suspension components everythings original!
Triggers broom?
 

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I haven't had it filling up with water, or the electronics go spastic, or the braking system play up obviously I've had to replace brake pads and disks etc. shocks and springs, 1 battery but everything else bar that and the engine and flywheel/clutch (only gave up at 176k miles for flywheel) I think's pretty good going now having sad that it will probably have a melt down next time I run it!

And WTF has Triggers broom got to do with it? Cheeky wotsits have more respect like to see you get 250k miles out of your car from new!
 

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*Ahem* 5 turbos, wheels, 2 doors, complete suspension.... :lol2:

Is the shell still original? :p
 

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don't you start! I can't help it if Mitsubishi can't make a decent turbo that can withstand my right foot!
Diff, prop and driveshafts still original as well as wheel bearings on right side and I still have original door, boot, roof and front left wing and if you did 250 mles you would have had a few twits hit you on the motorway that you can't do anything about :(
 
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