E8x Heated Seats Retrofit Guide

mrtoast · Apr 10, 2017

Currently have the cloth/Sensatec seats which are perfectly fine but fancied an upgrade.
Found a complete heated leather interior in good nick from a 2011 car.

http://imgur.com/RqEHVsi

If you buy a set of heated seats make sure they come with the heating modules installed (black box below)
Part number is 61356926435 for manual seats.

http://imgur.com/edsgr9A

The control buttons are also needed. I have front PDC so I needed one with the PDC and heating buttons, part number 61316962591.

http://imgur.com/CtS9KSe

Later cars (2011 onwards) have the heating buttons integrated to the climate panel.

The final part of the puzzle is the wiring to the seat heating module. There is an official retrofit kit which comes with a wiring kit but I don't know if the wiring is available separately. In any case it doesn't look too difficult to make up a loom to each seat (click for bigger)

http://imgur.com/LFHloiI

http://imgur.com/7CBw9qm

For each seat there's a new ground, two power wires to the fuse box and one to the junction box for the heating signal. Further investigation needed to determine the pin part numbers etc.

There's also this official retrofit PDF which may have some useful information, although it's for pre FL cars and some of the pin numbers are different.

https://drive.google.com/open?id=0BwPLtYvV6xwMTmpUdFZadjU0Um8

Coding wise is should be as simple as adding $494 to VO. Not sure which modules will be needed to reset to defaults yet.

mrtoast · Apr 10, 2017

Found a part breakdown of the official retrofit kit. The bits I need are as follows...

61 12 0 398 203 Retrofit cable set, heated seat 1
61 13 8 364 566 Connector, double 2

mrtoast · Apr 11, 2017

That retrofit wiring set is a bit more than I was hoping (£80). It includes the underseat looms (from seat connector to heating module) as well as the seat to JBBF looms. If you get a complete set of heated seats you won't need the underseat looms.

Here's the part list to make up the seat to JBBF looms:

4x 61 13 8 364 844 Socket contact ELO-Power 5,2x0,63 (Seat connectors X275 & X279)
4x 61 13 1 383 776 Jack MQS (Seat connectors X275 & X279)
2x 61 13 1 388 431 Cable terminal (Grounds X490 & X173)
2x 61 13 0 005 197 Bushing contact (JBBF connector X14270)
2x 61 13 0 007 438 Double leaf spring contact (Fuse holders X11008 & X11001)
1x 61 13 1 378 906 Double leaf spring contact (Fuse holder X11001)

All the fuses are the "mini" type. Fuse locations may vary, this info is valid for a facelift 130i with manual seats.

mrtoast · Apr 12, 2017

Installed the new button module. Straightforward swap, plugs into the back of the climate panel. Heated buttons don't do anything yet, coding presumably required.

http://imgur.com/MRatZjm

http://imgur.com/G8kdwFt

http://imgur.com/qtGnwEZ

mrtoast · May 4, 2017

Slow but steady progress on this one... got the passenger side seat in last night.
Had to transfer the buckle/pretensioner from my old seat as the new ones didn't come with them, fairly straightforward.
Interestingly the new seats (from a 2011 car) don't have the spring mechanism on back/forward movement that the old ones do.
Other than that it was a straight swap, disconnected the battery to avoid the SRS light being triggered.
Will put the driver's side in too then look at wiring up the heating elements.

http://imgur.com/hk4UTyZ

mrtoast · May 8, 2017

Both front seats in now. Spent some time making up the looms. Still not sure whether to try to add the new fuse connectors into the back of the fuse box or use the good old piggyback fuses. It looks like a nightmare to get to the back of the fuse box!

EDIT: Found some instructions here. Maybe it's not too bad. I already have a few piggyback fuses (dashcam, amplifier) and I don't really want to add any more, especially not for an OEM retrofit.

https://www.newtis.info/tisv2/a/en/...1-general-electrical-system/61-14-distribution-box-power-support-points/Obqgt5i

http://imgur.com/5b5r0VU

sp33dy · May 8, 2017

bjt said:
EDIT: Found some instructions here. Maybe it's not too bad. I already have a few piggyback fuses (dashcam, amplifier) and I don't really want to add any more, especially not for an OEM retrofit.

https://www.newtis.info/tisv2/a/en/...1-general-electrical-system/61-14-distribution-box-power-support-points/Obqgt5i

Nice find that TIS site, just been reading the seats section, and it seems to say "must use new fixing bolts" to put them back in ????

mrtoast · May 9, 2017

sp33dy said:
Nice find that TIS site, just been reading the seats section, and it seems to say "must use new fixing bolts" to put them back in ????

Hmm, yeah I see that too. I reused mine, I don't think they are stretch bolts but they look to have had some kind of threadlock on them.
I guess as a safety-critical part they are extra cautious. Think it will be fine to keep an eye out for them loosening or you could put more threadlock on I suppose.

Finished making up the wires:

2x Seat connector to 2x ground lug (4mm2 as spec) - Heating element ground

http://imgur.com/9SsBD9w

2x Seat connector to 2x fuse box power (2.5mm2 as spec) - Heating element power

http://imgur.com/strXorG

2x Seat connector to 1x fuse box power (0.75mm2, spec is thinner) - Control module power

http://imgur.com/gOmkFUs

2x Seat connector to 2x JBBF (0.75mm2, spec is thinner) - Control module PWM signal

http://imgur.com/mPrtoKu

mrtoast · May 11, 2017

Here's what needs to be added to the fusebox. Going to try to do this blind by reaching behind the fusebox, I really don't want to remove all the dash trim to get it out. Pre-2007 cars will have different fuse positions.

http://imgur.com/JMetAxZ

http://imgur.com/owzfreE

mrtoast · May 19, 2017

As expected taking the fuse box out is a bit of a nightmare. I bought one of those bendy driver extensions to help. The screws are T20.
First step is to remove the JBBF, that gives access to the fusebox screws from below. There's two screws on top of the JBBF then it just pulls out. The fusebox is secured by 4 screws. Still need to get the top right screw out, access is very limited. I can see why BMW wants you to remove the glovebox surround for access. However I am confident of success using a small bit holder and adjustable spanner to turn it :rollseyes:

http://imgur.com/59UIIrm

http://imgur.com/tKuN9Tv

mrtoast · May 22, 2017

Dropped the fusebox finally, what a b*tch :lol2:

The key to getting that top right screw was a torx key of exactly the right length and even then it probably took 20 mins to unscrew it bit by bit. Don't think I will be putting that one back in.

http://imgur.com/Y5DRc9p

http://imgur.com/T70NTP8

http://imgur.com/4dSrFxr

sp33dy · May 22, 2017

Nice one, i remember doing this once before (headlight washers) and i'm not looking forward to doing it again either.

I've ordered the cable connectors, and i have the cable now too. So i'm waiting with baited breath to see how you get on.

mrtoast · May 23, 2017

Added the new power wires to the fusebox. All pretty straightforward, the connector for each block of fuses just pops out of the back once all the corresponding fuses have been removed from the front.

Unfortunately it seems like I ordered slightly the wrong contacts for the JBBF connector block X14270. The contacts specified by ETK (61 13 0 005 199) have a rubber grommet which means they don't fit into the connector block. We want the same size contacts without the grommet (61 13 0 005 197). Should be possible to cut the grommets off so I'm not too worried.

Fuse holder X11001 with new contacts added

http://imgur.com/LUsaWkZ

mrtoast · May 26, 2017

Driver's & passenger control signals added to JBBF connector X14270

http://imgur.com/3cvhJFi

New wires added to passenger seat connector. Driver's side is the same.

http://imgur.com/3Xdx71r

http://imgur.com/glBn16D

Just the grounds left to put in.

mrtoast · May 26, 2017

Hooked up the passenger side ground. The official retrofit uses this grounding point under the carpet in the footwell. Driver's side looks like the accelerator needs unbolting to lift the carpet.

http://imgur.com/zPDEhOW

Sent from my Nexus 4 using Tapatalk

mrtoast · May 28, 2017

Coding was straightforward. Using Default profile in NCSExpert load VO from CAS or NFRM, add $494 to VO, write VO to CAS and NFRM, code JBBF and IHK. Now I have a warm bum in time for the hottest week of the year [emoji28]

http://imgur.com/ntcHI8l

Sent from my Nexus 4 using Tapatalk

mrtoast · Jun 3, 2017

Final tidying up of the wires. This braided sleeve stuff from eBay is ideal for tidying the wires under the seats.

http://imgur.com/WVKph8J

sp33dy · Jun 3, 2017

Nice one, I poked

my wires though the existing sleeves, just cut off the loom tape pushed em though and taped up the ends again with loom tape.

I just need to get em coded now, i've ordered a carly adaptor to give this a go.

mrtoast · Jun 3, 2017

sp33dy said:
Nice one, I poked my wires though the existing sleeves, just cut off the loom tape pushed em though and taped up the ends again with loom tape.

I just need to get em coded now, i've ordered a carly adaptor to give this a go.

Don't think Carly can do this unfortunately, you need a cable & laptop with NCS Expert.

sp33dy · Jun 4, 2017

Ok, where's best to get a cable? I see bmcables have some bad reviews etc.

mrtoast · Jun 4, 2017

sp33dy said:
Ok, where's best to get a cable? I see bmcables have some bad reviews etc.

"D-Can Diagnostic Package" from

http://www.cable-shack.co.uk/products.php

I am sure the cable itself can be purchased much more cheaply but I know this one works and it comes with a DVD with all the software.

Happy to code it for you if you're passing through West/South Yorks at any point also.

sp33dy · Jun 5, 2017

Cheers,

I know a chap locally who is a bmw & coding expert, so i may ask him to take a look see for me.

teasdas · Jun 8, 2017

bjt said:
sp33dy said:

Ok, where's best to get a cable? I see bmcables have some bad reviews etc.

Click to expand...

"D-Can Diagnostic Package" from
http://www.cable-shack.co.uk/products.php

I am sure the cable itself can be purchased much more cheaply but I know this one works and it comes with a DVD with all the software.

Happy to code it for you if you're passing through West/South Yorks at any point also.

I've just bought a set of heated leather seats to replace the cloth ones. I wouldn't have a clue where to start with all the wiring and coding though! Is there any chance you could do mine? Obviously I'd pay you.
Sam

sp33dy · Jun 8, 2017

bjt said:
Coding was straightforward. Using Default profile in NCSExpert load VO from CAS or NFRM, add $494 to VO, write VO to CAS and NFRM, code JBBF and IHK.

I managed to code $494 to the VO in my CAS and NFRM, but which options do you need to change in the JBBF and IHK ? this the bit i'm not sure about.

Jack79 · Jun 9, 2017

I think that you do not change anything, just sg_codiren witout option "manipulate by MAN file". JBBF and IHK just have to know that something is change in car. This will enable everything that should be, to heating work.

sp33dy · Jun 9, 2017

Ok, maybe I have missed that step or something, I'm a newb on this coding business. I have only followed the change VO method in ncs expert so far, still learning.

E8x Heated Seats Retrofit Guide

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