I can't see why there would be any problem with using that kit.
There's probably a lot of variety you can choose from anyway perhaps even cheaper.
At the end of the day I think machine polishing is more about technique, patience and preparation.
You wanna clean the car very throughly followed by decontaminating with iron x and clay bar before you even consider machine'ing it. Makes the job easier and better results.
Someone on here might be able to advise in a better machine for you.
The polisher is fine as a starter (especially if you have never used one before..) but it will struggle with the harder BMW paint to remove the swirls as its not the most powerful machine to use. The products / compounds included are also not good enough to do more than an enhancement to the paint (they are not heavy enough to remove swirling on German paint, only cover them up)
Then their is Monza themselves - they had stolen the use of many of my images and passing them off as their own! Yes really! They have paid me for them now but says alot about them passing off others peoples work as theirs!
If you want some ideas of better products (and cheaper with better service!) then PM me and I'll get back to you tomorrow..
The polisher is fine as a starter (especially if you have never used one before..) but it will struggle with the harder BMW paint to remove the swirls as its not the most powerful machine to use. The products / compounds included are also not good enough to do more than an enhancement to the paint (they are not heavy enough to remove swirling on German paint, only cover them up)
Then their is Monza themselves - they had stolen the use of many of my images and passing them off as their own! Yes really! They have paid me for them now but says alot about them passing off others peoples work as theirs!
If you want some ideas of better products (and cheaper with better service!) then PM me and I'll get back to you tomorrow..
The polisher is fine as a starter (especially if you have never used one before..) but it will struggle with the harder BMW paint to remove the swirls as its not the most powerful machine to use. The products / compounds included are also not good enough to do more than an enhancement to the paint (they are not heavy enough to remove swirling on German paint, only cover them up)
Then their is Monza themselves - they had stolen the use of many of my images and passing them off as their own! Yes really! They have paid me for them now but says alot about them passing off others peoples work as theirs!
If you want some ideas of better products (and cheaper with better service!) then PM me and I'll get back to you tomorrow..
The Rupes is a much better machine, however get the LHR15 not the 21 - the number dictates the amount of throw (distance the machine head moves in one spin) and the 21 is too much to use around handles / fragile areas.
However, if it HAS to be the 21, look at the identical machine by Vertool:
any recommendations for a good budget polisher? (<100) or is it no such thing? don't want to spend money if it's not really worth it but also I don't feel the need to get an all singing all dancing one. Cheers!
any recommendations for a good budget polisher? (<100) or is it no such thing? don't want to spend money if it's not really worth it but also I don't feel the need to get an all singing all dancing one. Cheers!
OP, its a balancing act between spending too much on kit that you wont use again, or just going to a reputable detailer nearby to do the job for you for probably the same type of cost.
OP, its a balancing act between spending too much on kit that you wont use again, or just going to a reputable detailer nearby to do the job for you for probably the same type of cost.
OP, its a balancing act between spending too much on kit that you wont use again, or just going to a reputable detailer nearby to do the job for you for probably the same type of cost.
good point well made, i'm trying to keep it sensible and not get too caught up on brands and products. Theres a guy where i live that will do it for around 220 quid for a 2 stage, however I wouldn't mind trying it as a learning experience. I might be so sick of it i'll never try it again!!
I'm thinking wash, tar, rinse, iron remover, wash, (maybe clay), megs compound, IPA wipe, SRP, then megs gold class carnuba (or maybe i'll buy something better). On the bright side i already have said products so thats something i suppose. Thinking of getting these two items:
OP, its a balancing act between spending too much on kit that you wont use again, or just going to a reputable detailer nearby to do the job for you for probably the same type of cost.
good point well made, i'm trying to keep it sensible and not get too caught up on brands and products. Theres a guy where i live that will do it for around 220 quid for a 2 stage, however I wouldn't mind trying it as a learning experience. I might be so sick of it i'll never try it again!!
I'm thinking wash, tar, rinse, iron remover, wash, (maybe clay), megs compound, IPA wipe, SRP, then megs gold class carnuba (or maybe i'll buy something better). On the bright side i already have said products so thats something i suppose. Thinking of getting these two items:
Dual action do less damage because of the oscillating action but subsequently take more effort to cut
Orbitals are better but you can easily do more damage.
A cheap correction job is gonna cost you 500 quid at least so you can quickly save money by investing in the gear yourself but on the flip you can totally f**k your paintwork up too so you have to take extreme care, particularly on the bodywork creases where the paint is thinner.
Also you might want to invest in a digital paint thickness guage so you know what you're working with before you start should you decide to take the plunge.
Dual action do less damage because of the oscillating action but subsequently take more effort to cut
Orbitals are better but you can easily do more damage.
A cheap correction job is gonna cost you 500 quid at least so you can quickly save money by investing in the gear yourself but on the flip you can totally f**k your paintwork up too so you have to take extreme care, particularly on the bodywork creases where the paint is thinner.
Also you might want to invest in a digital paint thickness guage so you know what you're working with before you start should you decide to take the plunge.
Dual action do less damage because of the oscillating action but subsequently take more effort to cut
Orbitals are better but you can easily do more damage.
A cheap correction job is gonna cost you 500 quid at least so you can quickly save money by investing in the gear yourself but on the flip you can totally f**k your paintwork up too so you have to take extreme care, particularly on the bodywork creases where the paint is thinner.
Also you might want to invest in a digital paint thickness guage so you know what you're working with before you start should you decide to take the plunge.
Even after having my car detailed a few weeks ago, in bright sunlight I can see lots of swirls.
I was convinced this was my fault even though I pressure rinse, snow foam, rinse, 2 bucket wash and rinse. Sometimes followed with quick detailing spray. I wash with an Angelwax mitt and dry using their big, thick towels.
Someone has said they think the swirls are due to the detailer using a rotary polisher??
They've pointed me in the direction of the Polished Bliss sight and said I could buy:
Kestrel DAS-6 or Kestrel Power Plus dual action polishers along with Flexipads DA microfibres cutting discs and Meguiar's microfiber correction compound.
They said this should be good enough for the swirls, and me having never tried this, and I really can't do any damage to the paint with this?
I don't know anything and trust their advice but I always welcome more opinions :-o
A photo could be useful here Richie. When you say swirls do you mean micro-scratches in the paint or buffer trails? If its buffer trails then these have more than likely been done by the 'detailer' and need correction. Why not take it back and have a word with him if you paid him before shelling out on new kit?
Having trouble getting a photo...and being able to post it
When you say buffer trails...that was something that was mentioned as well as swirls.
I should add that I had a protection detail rather than a paint correction if that matters?
And yes, the obvious thing is to speak to the guy but it was also still a question about the things mentioned as in the long term I guess I could save money. I've always been a bit scared of trying a machine polisher for fear of making a big mess.
I'm assuming the main thing is having the time to wash/clay it then use the machine. With working shifts I might be able to do a panel or 2 but then nothing for 3 or 4 days as I'll have the car to go to work.
Theres nothing stopping you from doing 1 or 2 panels at a time. Not everyone will be able to spare a full day or 2 to get a car fully decontaminated and polished up. Iv heard of many people doing their cars this way. Just make sure you apply some wax or sealant after all the hard work
With regards to the detail, you need to see what was actually done on your car. are you sure it was machine polished? Some details do not involve machine polishing. Its best to speak to the detailer. The terminology used for different packages can vary from 1 detailer to the next. They may have details of their packages on their website or facebook, worth checking there to see what your detail involved.
What protection was used as part of the package?
I'm a bit shocked that nothing was corrected before the protection was applied. If you now machine polish your car you will actually remove the protection you have paid for putting you right back at square one.
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