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Handbrake adjustment

32K views 16 replies 7 participants last post by  Dave1 
#1 ·
Hi .. the handbrake on my new 135i is not to good but BMW say that its in spec ? it needs to be pulled on to around 10 - 12 clicks before it holds good i have found to be rolling at lights if i dont pay attention !
has anyone adjusted themselvs ? i had a look this morning but but did not find any adjusters although there must be .....
 
#3 ·
Thanks ... tried out the trick of applying the handbrake a couple of times a slow speed but i dont think there is any change :? still pulling the lever almost right to the arm rest to be sure to hold ...
 
#4 ·
Thanks guys, I will check this out as my handbrake needs to be pulled up too far as well.
I asked BMW to adjust it when the car went in for it's 1st service the other week, they wanted £75 ! :eek2: :eek: I said I'll do it myself, thanks.

Mr L :D
 
#5 ·
MrL said:
Thanks guys, I will check this out as my handbrake needs to be pulled up too far as well.
I asked BMW to adjust it when the car went in for it's 1st service the other week, they wanted £75 ! :eek2: :eek: I said I'll do it myself, thanks.

Mr L :D
£75 Ouch. Just take it an indie.
 
#7 ·
blimey when i asked them to tighten mine under warranty, they did but it has loosened off again comes up about 8 clicks.

my old audi had an adjuster in the centre console by the handbrake, basically a cable with a couple of nuts on it and twisted them in opposite directions to tighten.

not sure how you do it on the bm's
 
#8 ·
How to adjust the handbrake, the BMW way!

First lift you handbrake gaitor inside the car, it just unclips up.

You'll see the end of the handbrake cable on a self tensioning spring.
You need to release the handle, and push the metal end back against the spring with a screwdriver.
Keep your fingers clear!
You'll be able to see a little slot at the side of the spring end cap, and when you push back far enough, a little clip will become visible, you then move the endcap to hook onto the little tab.

If you have a look it'll make more sense!

That takes the tension out of the cable, and next, head off to the back wheels.

You can just undo one wheel bolt, and with a bright torch, look in for the adjustor. It's the same one pictured in the links above. What you need to do is put a flat bladed screwdriver into the hole and flick the little star-wheel around until it tightens on the wheel.

You may find it easier with the wheel off and just looking through the brake disc hub.

You tighten this until you can't turn the wheel by hand (make sure it's out of gear!) and then back off 8 flicks.

That's then back to as-new spec.

do the other side, put the bolt back, then remember to release that spring tensioner under the handbrake. Just jab it again with a screwdriver, and this time, let it come out without catching that tab.

Gaitor back on, and job done!
 
#9 ·
Hell, I can see why they charge £75 now :eek:
Still, I'll have a go myself first I think.

Mr L :D
 
#10 ·
If you boil it down, it's actually pretty simple.
take the tension of the spring, one bolt out and flick the star wheel to tighten it.

you will however spend ages trying to line the wheel bolt hole up, and flicking the wheel around to figure out which way to turn it!

from memory, drivers side, the adjuster is at 10.30 on the clock. I think it works out with a wheelbolt at exactly 6oclock.

It's easier with the wheel off, and you can get close enough to see if it's tightened all the way in, or expanding out and you can see some threads starting to show.

I'm struggling to find a decent close up pic, but the star wheel in a nut that just jacks out a threaded section like a bolt. If you can't see the threaded section, it's tightened fully in.

for the passenger side, the expander is at 1.30ish on the clock scale.



Got one!!
that's the fella.


that's a general guide, 1 series spec is spring off, tighten the star wheel so the wheel doesn't move by hand, and back off 8 clicks.

(if you don't back off the full 8 clicks, the spring under the handbrake lever might keep it on for you!)
 
#11 ·
Glad im not the only one! Was quite surprised to see my brand new car rolling down the drive lol
 
#12 ·
Got the wheels off and adjusted the small wheel on the "self adjusters" , only turned them 3 flats just to see how it was and yes its better ! but next time the wheels are off ill give it another 3 flats ....
one thing i found was the jacking points ! my jack ( trolly jack ) would not fit ! i think something would break if i tried ! dont tell me it needs to be a BMW spec jack that would just be insane !
 
#14 ·
blackbmw116 said:
If your brakes are so far out of adjustment will there be any tension to release :?: .
Let me explain what I mean. If you are on 4-6 clicks and the brake works perfectly well, if you want to adjust by a couple of clicks (avoiding any binding), can it be done purely at the wheel without the need to touch the handbrake "linkage" inside the car?
 
#15 ·
I turned it 3 flats with no issue ... i did look at the tension spring at the lever but decide to leave alone . as i wasnt 100% sure what to do ... im going to ajdust at the wheels again another 3 flats ... hopefilly that should do it ....
not to impressed with BMW saying that it was ok ! nearly had to get in the back to apply the brake propperly ! ......
 
#16 ·
the spring bit is vital.
You may get lucky, and find a good spot, but it's there for a reason.

The handbrake cable isn't very stretchy. Infact, it's not meant to stretch at all.
Without springs, it'd pull up 5 clicks of the handle with your little finger, then lock absolutely solid.

Using that tensioner spring is the same as having someone sitting in the car holding the thing up for you.

The 8 clicks back on the star wheel is just the right amount to allow the spring to do it's work, fully release the brake when you let the handle off, but still lock the rear wheels, and have a good bit of tension (force) kept on them at all times.

On all of the older BMs without the helper spring, you only backed off about 3-4 clicks.

This tension left on the system stops the car rolling away after being left for a while.
Instead of if being locked, and any slight release will let the shoes drop away, this always has a good few newtons on that wire.
 
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